First order of business: changing rooms.
YouTube: Ancon Hill Hike
YouTube: Ancon Hill Hike
We were on the road at dawn, leaving Cambutal with that familiar mix of anticipation and grit that comes with a full travel day ahead. This time, thanks to the Waze app, we were routed the right way—avoiding the mistake from last time. The notorious pothole section was mercifully short, about 45 minutes instead of the two-hour gauntlet we endured on the way in.
The outbound leg more than made up for the rough bits. The road lifted us onto beautiful mountain ridges, with sweeping sea views appearing unexpectedly between turns. It was one of those drives where you’re reminded why slow, overland travel still matters—the landscape tells its story mile by mile.
For the final two hours, Rebecca took the wheel as the weather closed in. Rain followed us toward Panama City, and then came the traffic—dense, chaotic, and demanding full attention. It made for a harrowing bookend to the day: challenging at both the start and the finish.
We ran a few errands in the Fort Clayton area before arriving at our destination for the night, the American Trade Hotel. We checked in mid-afternoon and were immediately taken by the place. Our fourth-floor room looks out over Panama Bay and Ancon (Cerro Ancón), a view that stirred memories of my days as a cadet transiting the Panama Canal back in 1982. Time collapses in moments like that—same skyline, different life chapter.
In the evening, we headed out to the Elks Club, and I was genuinely excited to put my Elks membership to use at the Panama Canal Elks. We were warmly greeted by the Exalted Ruler, and Alan Dekle was behind the bar. Dinner was simple and satisfying—cocktail shrimp with rice and beans—while Rebecca and Alan shared stories from their Canal Zone days in the 1980s and earlier. It felt like stepping into a living archive of the Zone’s social history.
We Ubered both ways, at roughly three dollars each trip—money very well spent. The route took us through El Chorrillo, a section of Panama City that’s more than a little sketchy, and it was nice to leave the navigation and vigilance to someone else after such a long day.
With a full day of travel behind us, we returned to the hotel ready for a deep, well-earned sleep, except that Rebecca checked out the pool on her climb up the four flights of stairs and is already eager to spend an evening swim there tomorrow night
A Wonderful Jungle Hike
This morning began with adventure in the air. We were picked up by Azuero Adventures from Hotel Playa Cambutal and joined several other hikers from Chicago who are here on a yoga retreat. Together we set off into the jungle, following an upriver trail for about an hour each way, with the rhythmic sound of water and birds guiding us forward. Our destination: a beautiful cascading waterfall tucked deep in the forest.
The hike itself was lovely, but the true highlight was our guide, Bryan. He is Panamanian, studied biology at university, and it showed in every step of the journey. He seemed to know every plant, tree, animal, and insect along the way. We took a fascinating deep dive into the worlds of bullet ants and army ants, and explored the secrets of termites and their nests built in the branches of the trees.
Where Bryan really shone, though, was in explaining the geology of the peninsula. He described how this land was once a volcanic island, later joined through the movement and collision of three tectonic plates. That monumental meeting helped form Central America itself. Standing there, he reminded us that we were at the southernmost point of North America, on the Azuero Peninsula—history, science, and scenery all merging in one spot.
After reaching the waterfall, we took a refreshing swim in the clear pool it created. Cooling off beneath the cascade of the falls, we felt the natural hydraulics of the water massaging our shoulders, a soothing reward after the hike in. It was simply unforgettable—one of those moments where time slows down and you realize just how lucky you are to be exactly where you are
An Evening at Aurora Rincón
We had a most enjoyable evening at a small, local Panamanian restaurant tucked down the dirt road from our hotel, Playa Cambutal. The place was called Aurora Rincón, and it couldn’t have been more unassuming—simple cinderblock walls, a corrugated tin roof, and tree-trunk posts holding it all together. The kind of place you might drive past without a second thought, and the kind you’re always glad you didn’t.
Behind the bar and stove was Fernando, the chef, and he was nothing short of amazing. We started with tuna ceviche, fresh and perfectly balanced, setting the tone for the rest of the meal. For the main course, tuna was my protein, while Rebecca chose chicken, both served over a bed of pumpkin and vegetables that were diced and cooked to absolute perfection.
It was truly a local spot—authentic, welcoming, and full of character. A hidden gem and a wonderful discovery, Aurora Rincón was the perfect way to cap off the evening, reminding us once again that some of the best meals come from the simplest places.
A Day on the Pacific
Today started before sunrise in Cambutal, with that mix of anticipation and sleepiness that only an early fishing day brings. Things got interesting right away with a bit of name confusion among the guides. Between similar names and a language barrier, it took some effort to sort out who was who. In the end our guide was not Robert, but Pio, and the other boat in the group was captained by Oscar. They had some battery issues getting started, but eventually everyone made it off the beach and out toward blue water.
About 15 kilometers offshore, the ocean began to come alive. Birds were working hard, diving and wheeling above the surface—clear signs of tuna feeding below. It felt like the perfect setup. Lines went out, drags were ready, and spirits were high.
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| Heading out in the panga boat |
I shared the boat with another hotel guest, John, who grew up in Wisconsin but now lives in Emerald Isle, North Carolina—the same little blonde family from Wisconsin we’d noticed earlier at the point. Despite all the promising bird life and the miles covered, our luck just didn’t line up with the bite today. Our only fish to the boat was a jack crevalle. We did hook into one tuna, but it shook the hook before we could bring it close. Meanwhile, to really rub salt into things, Oscar’s boat managed to land fivetuna.
The ride back was long and lumpy, getting rocked around in semi-rough seas off Azuero. Even without coolers full of fish, it was still a full day on the Pacific—sun, spray, near-misses, good company, and stories that will grow with time. Some days you limit out; some days the ocean reminds you who’s in charge. Today was the latter, and that’s all part of the adventure.
A Laid‑Back Beach Day of Rest
We eased into the day with a slow, peaceful morning. Before breakfast, we wandered down the road for a yoga session unlike any we’ve tried before. The place we did yoga was called The Collective (Collectiva). It blended flowing movement with… eyeball yoga. Yes—actual exercises for your eyes. I’ve never seen that before, pun very much intended.
After yoga, we headed over to check the surf at the point, Cuatro Once. A small blonde family from Wisconsin was already posted up there, enjoying the view, and some small waves coming through. There was a bit of swell showing at high tide, but not quite enough to justify renting a board—the juice just wasn’t worth the squeeze today.
Instead, we opted for the simplest plan: an easygoing beach day out front of the Playa Cambutal Hotel. The afternoon unfolded slowly and perfectly—time in the ocean, lounging by the pool, and capping it all off with a beautiful sunset photo.
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| Cambutal Beach Sunset |
The hotel food has been fantastic, and the staff incredibly hospitable. Overall it’s been a wonderfully relaxed, low‑key beach experience—exactly the kind of day of rest we were hoping for.
What a Long, Strange Trip It’s Been
January 11, 2026
Today felt like a true road-trip odyssey. Many hours on less than perfect Panamanian roads. In tribute to Bobby Weir’s passing last evening, and all the music and memories tied to him and the Grateful Dead, Rebecca let me listen to the Dead for most of the drive. There’s something about those songs rolling on in the background that makes the miles feel like part of a story rather than just pavement passing by.
It was a six-hour drive from Panama City to the small beach village of Cambutal. The day, the music, and the long ribbon of road all seemed to fit with that line: what a long, strange trip it’s been.
We checked into the Cambutal Hotel just in time to watch the Jaguars lose their divisional playoff game to the Bills in the wild card round. Cambutal feels like a sleepy little place — slow air, quiet streets, ocean somewhere just beyond the horizon of trees. This afternoon was all about rest after the long ride, especially after the last hour, which was a pothole-marked stretch advertised as the “new road” into Cambutal. New, apparently, in spirit only, certainly not in road texture!
The drive carried us through countless small Panamanian villages, each with its familiar rhythm, and each with a Chinese-owned supermercado, a dusty main road, and a sense of time moving a little differently. When you go into the store, you learn the trick quickly — pick the package with the least dust and hope that means it’s the freshest. We also stopped at Quesos Chela, of course — a compulsory stop on any beachward drive leaving Panama City.
We grabbed empanadas and queso blanco for the road. The final hour into Cambutal was winding and narrow, full of potholes, blind turns, and hills — jungle on both sides, road ahead uncertain, the ocean somewhere waiting at the end of it.
Now it’s time to rest, let the road unwind from our shoulders, and listen just a little longer as the music fades into the sound of the evening.
Fishing Day on Lake Gatun
I woke up early today after a night of not-so-restful sleep. It never quite turned into deep sleep, just that drifting, half-awake state. By morning I was up and moving, making breakfast and coffee with Marti’s Miele coffee maker — the best part of the early start.
By 6:30 I met up with my fellow five fishermen — or pescadores — mostly folks from The Villages in Florida. A good crew, easy conversation, and plenty of anticipation for the day ahead on the water.
We had a solid half day of fishing on Lake Gatun. Our targets were peacock bass and snook. The peacock bass cooperated nicely; the snook definitely did not. Still, plenty of action, tropical scenery, and that familiar rhythm of cast, retrieve, repeat, in a jungle setting.
After fishing, we stopped at Magoo’s for fish tacos. The owner, Carlos, was incredibly friendly and easygoing. We got to talking about tacos, and I shared the story of their origins: fish tacos are widely believed to have originated in Ensenada, Baja California, when local fishermen began batter-frying fresh fish and serving it in tortillas with cabbage, crema, and salsa. The style caught on in the 1980s and eventually spread worldwide — knowledge I picked up firsthand on my surf trips to Baja.
Meanwhile, Rebecca spent the day in her childhood home, walking her old haunts and soaking in familiar memories, and topped it off with a manicure.
Dinner was later with the Dolans at Makoto, a downtown restaurant, seated outside on a patio facing the skyscrapers of the city. Warm air, lights rising over the skyline, and great company with Eddie and Carson made for the perfect end to the day.
An early morning, good fishing, tacos, city lights, and friends — not a bad way to spend a day.