Viking Blog Sept 10-19, 2026
9/9-10 Prague — Let the Adventure Begin
A standard full day of travel: up early and on our way MCO to PHL and then on to Prague. Courtesy of American Airlines.
But this time, we had assigned seats! What a concept. No standby roulette, no wondering if we were going to make it. And somehow, Rebecca managed to sneak an extended-legroom upgrade by me. Just a completely different travel experience when you actually know where you’re sitting, and actually have a seat.
And the airplane? A big ol’ 787.
Not used to flying on a purchased ticket, with checked bag privileges, we almost forgot something rather important upon arrival in Prague : our checked baggage. We’re so used to traveling standby and carrying everything on that Rebecca actually had to remind me in Prague that we had a bag to collect.
Meanwhile, we’d been texting our “Viking 8” traveling companions with updates on our progress, and they were doing the same with us. John and Mary, however, got caught in a four-hour customs ordeal. Our 1½ hours suddenly felt like a holiday.
Customs was undoubtedly a pretty cumbersome experience here Basically, a cattle call.
Once we finally escaped, the Viking pickup was excellent—precise, punctual, and very nice. About 35 minutes later, we were at the Hilton Atrium in Prague.
And then… Prague.
The first impression is pure European vibe: cobblestone streets, cable cars, the river, and beautiful old buildings everywhere. The Basilica of St. Peter and Paul is right near the Hilton Atrium, and there was an active Mass going on when we walked by.
I asked Tereza, our Viking representative, about refilling our water bottles. This was definitely a language-barrier moment. In her Czech-accented English, she assured me that “everywhere in the Czech Republic, water is good.”
Then came the helpful part:
“Maybe you fill it in the toilet.” (Bathroom sink?)
Well… okay then.
We took a lovely walk with the Kings. Rebecca was especially happy to discover kombucha for sale at a little park and riverside bar. Priorities.
Down along the river, we came across a whitewater sluice where there were people practicing whitewater kayaking and surfers riding a standing wave. Not exactly what you expect to find in the middle of Prague.
Rebecca suddenly spotted what she thought was a beaver in the river.
Turns out it was a muskrat.
The giveaway? Slim tail versus paddle tail. Wildlife identification lesson complete. No wonder this is known as the “greenest” city in Europe
The whole riverwalk had a total Euro vibe. Background music was everything from ’70s and ’80s disco to Queen remixed in an EDM style. Very European. Very Prague.
For dinner, we headed to Gate Restaurant, a typical Czech restaurant, where our server Veronica was exceptionally attentive. We enjoyed goulash, dumplings, and local beers.
And with that, our Prague introduction came to a close. Customs was cleared, checked bags were collected, the water bottles were—eventually—refilled, and the first river adventure was underway.
Now, let the Danube River adventure begin.
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| The "Viking 8" Rebecca, Geoff, John, Mary Jeff, Lori, Tom, Nancy |
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| The Danube |
Prague — Day 2 | September 11, 2026
Sleep, Breakfast & a Very Impressive Gym
Sleep. Well… not so good when you’re six time zones off.
The first email of the morning was from Viking: 60% off your next cruise! An ominous way to start the day when we haven’t even made it onto this one yet. I’m beginning to wonder if Viking knows something we don’t about the itinerary ahead.
We’re also beginning to realize that the Danube River is exceedingly low, which means we may need to be flexible with our itinerary. It also raises the question of how much cruising we’ll actually be doing on the Viking ship.
Up and in the gym at 0600 with Rebecca. We realized pretty quickly that this is a Hilton, but even by Hilton standards, the fitness center is way above average. Plenty of equipment and a great place to get the day started.
Then came breakfast—and it was every bit as spectacular as the fitness center. An incredible buffet and an omelette station that could have been its own restaurant. A great morning so far, and we started meeting more of our fellow travelers over breakfast. New Hampshire couples: Tom and Nancy and John and Mary.
Prague Walking Tour
We met our tour group downstairs—about 30 guests—for our Praha walking tour, led by our guide, Ivana.
We boarded the bus into the Old Town and began what would become a four-hour history lesson on Prague and the Czech Republic.
We started with Good King Wenceslas, the patron saint of the Czech Republic, and then explored the Old Town Square, which has been an important marketplace for centuries. Wenceslas Square also played a role in demonstrations during the Communist era and the Velvet Revolution, which peacefully brought an end to Communist rule in Czechoslovakia in 1989.
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| Good King Wenceslas |
Prague’s history seems to be layered everywhere you look.
We got our first views of the Vltava River and Prague Castle from the left bank, including the famous metronome perched high on the ridge.
We then moved through the former Jewish Quarter and learned about the old Jewish ghetto, including the lack of a sewage system and the incredibly difficult conditions people endured.
We saw the Old-New Synagogue, dating to the 13th century and considered the oldest active synagogue in Europe. Its unusual Hebrew clock runs counterclockwise.
The nearby Jewish Cemetery was equally fascinating. Burial took place in layers over more than 400 years because of the limited space. As many as ten layers of burials are believed to exist, with estimates reaching roughly 100,000 people.
The Astronomical Clock
Back in Old Town Square, we gathered around Prague’s famous Astronomical Clock.
Every hour brings a little show as the figures move, including the Apostles and symbolic figures representing things such as Death, vanity and other human weaknesses. At the appointed hour, the clock comes alive while crowds gather around to watch.
And we learned another interesting Czech statistic: Czechs are the world’s biggest beer drinkers, averaging roughly 139 liters per person each year.
That’s a lot of beer.
The old houses throughout Prague are also fascinating. Instead of modern street numbers, many historic buildings were identified by symbols or house signs—like the Golden Snake.
Charles Bridge & the Little Quarter
We crossed into the Little Quarter, walking along the famous cobblestone streets.
Then came Charles Bridge, one of Prague’s signature landmarks. Originally called the Stone Bridge, construction began in the 14th century under King Charles IV. The bridge connects the Old Town with the Little Quarter and Prague Castle and is lined with its famous statues.
Walking across it really gives you a sense of how old Prague is. You’re surrounded by centuries of history while tourists, musicians and vendors fill the bridge today.
Royal Gardens, Tulips & Scarlet Begonias
Our tour took us through Prague’s Royal Gardens, where we learned that tulip bulbs were introduced to Europe here before they became synonymous with Holland.
And, of course, we spotted some beautiful scarlet begonias.
Unfortunately, it wasn’t tulip season, but seeing those scarlet begonias in Prague definitely made me think of the Grateful Dead song.
Prague Castle
We took the coach up the hill to Prague Castle, an enormous complex that has served as the seat of Czech rulers for centuries and remains an important center of government.
The approach was spectacular. We crossed a bridge over the old moat, with the massive castle walls and the soaring spires of St. Vitus Cathedral rising above us.
The history here includes the long influence of the Habsburg monarchy, which ruled Bohemia for centuries.
One of the most impressive sights was the cathedral’s Golden Gate, decorated with three large mosaic panels representing Heaven, Hell and the glory of Christ.
St. Vitus Cathedral itself dominates the castle complex and the Prague skyline.
Throughout the entire four-hour tour, Ivana carried the Viking Circle sign, #38, making it remarkably easy for our group to stay together. More importantly, she delivered a continuous, nearly overwhelming stream of information about Prague, Czech culture and the complicated history of the country.
The Metronome & a Different Side of Prague
After the official tour ended, we decided to continue on our own.
We walked through the Royal Palace Gardens, crossed a footbridge and followed the park back toward the Prague Metronome.
The Metronome is a true Prague landmark, but the area around it had a completely different feel from the historic center.
There was a small wedding party at the top of the hill near the Hanavský Pavilion, where the views across the Vltava and the city were stunning.
Prague is often called the City of a Hundred Spires, and from the ridge you can see exactly why.
The area around the Metronome was covered with graffiti and filled with local skateboarders. It felt much more like the everyday, youthful Prague than the heavily toured Old Town.
A surprisingly pleasant part of the afternoon.
Back to Old Town
Eventually we made our way back to Old Town.
Right behind the Týn Church, we found the Dubliner Pub. The entrance was down a set of stairs that looked like it belonged to an old bunker.
Very cool vibe. And a great place for lunch.
Dinner at Lokal
We ended the day at Hamburk Lokal, and the name pretty much delivered on the promise.
It was indeed local.
A robust, youthful Friday evening crowd had spilled out onto the street to enjoy a pleasant evening, giving the place an energetic, very Czech feel.
Dinner was classic Czech food—fried cheese, schnitzel and tenderloin skewers—and everything was hearty, simple and delicious.
After a long day of walking, history, cobblestones and probably enough beer consumed by the country to keep the Vltava flowing, it was the perfect way to finish Day 2 in Prague.
Four hours of history. Several more hours exploring on our own. A lot of walking. Great food. And a much better understanding of why Prague is one of Europe’s great cities.
Tomorrow: one more day in Prague before we board the Viking cruise.
September 12 — Road Trip Through Central Bohemia
Following another excellent breakfast buffet, we boarded the bus at 9:00 a.m. for a road trip into Central Bohemia.
It was a beautiful, sunny day, with temperatures ranging from the low 50s in the morning to the low 70s by the afternoon. Our destination was Kutná Hora, approximately one hour and twenty minutes from Prague.
Our guide, Charles, provided historical commentary along the way. Even the name Kutná Hora has an interesting origin. The town’s history is closely associated with its silver mines, which generated considerable wealth for the Bohemian kingdom.
The bus ride through the rolling countryside reminded me of Pennsylvania, with its hills, fields, and small villages distributed throughout the landscape.
Kutná Hora is a UNESCO World Heritage medieval town, and our tour focused on three principal highlights: the Bone Church, lunch, and the magnificent Cathedral of St. Barbara.
The Bone Church
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Our first stop was the Church of All Saints and its famous ossuary, commonly known as the Bone Church.
The interior contains the remains of an estimated 30,000–40,000 people, arranged in remarkably elaborate—and somewhat unsettling—decorations.
During the Crusades, soil believed to have come from the site of Jesus’ death was brought back and scattered at the church, making the cemetery highly desirable for burial. Over the centuries, the remains accumulated to the point that a solution was required for their storage.
The resulting arrangement is certainly memorable.
Photography was not permitted inside, so visitors must rely on their imagination. I have provided stock photos:
Our first stop in Kutná Hora also provided our first encounter with the practical realities of European sightseeing: using the restroom required a payment of 20 Czech crowns.
Apparently, paying to use the facilities is an international practice.
Lunch and St. Barbara
After lunch, we walked through the historic center toward the Cathedral of St. Barbara.
The Gothic architecture is extraordinary. The scale of the cathedral is immense, and everywhere one looks, there is another ornate altar, statue, fresco, or artifact.
The ceiling and roof structure also incorporate imagery connected to Kutná Hora’s silver-mining heritage, including a statue of a silver miner and frescoes depicting Italians profiting from the silver mined in the region.
One of the most impressive features was the massive organ, topped with golden angels blowing horns.
There was also a fresco of St. Ignatius of Loyola, the founder of the Jesuit order.
The cathedral is also associated with the legend of St. Barbara. According to traditional accounts, Barbara was the daughter of a wealthy pagan named Dioscorus, who confined her to a tower to prevent her from encountering Christianity. She secretly converted, however, and had a third window added to the tower to symbolize the Holy Trinity. When her father discovered her faith, he became enraged and pursued her with a sword. Barbara escaped briefly but was eventually captured and brought before the authorities. After she refused to renounce Christianity, her father personally carried out the sentence and killed her. According to the legend, he was immediately struck by lightning and killed—an appropriate example of divine drama for the patron saint associated with protection from lightning and sudden death.
We also walked through the former Jesuit garden courtyard, which now incorporates modern art into the historic setting.
At this point, we continued hearing that we were in Bohemia, which naturally led to the question:
So, What exactly is a Bohemian?
Bohemia is the historic western region of what is now the Czech Republic, including Prague and Kutná Hora.
Over time, however, the word acquired an entirely different meaning.
In 19th-century France, bohemian became associated with unconventional, free-spirited artists and individuals who lived outside established social conventions.
The French connection arose from the mistaken belief that the Romani people—historically referred to as Gypsies—had migrated to France from Bohemia. The French called them les bohémiens, and over time the term became associated with nomadic, unconventional, and artistic lifestyles.
Thus, the modern meaning of “bohemian” has little connection to the actual people of Bohemia.
It is remarkable how much history is contained in a single word.
Dinner Above Prague
Back in Prague, we took an Uber to the Žižkov Television Tower for dinner at Oblaca, located on the third floor, approximately 66 meters above the ground.
The tower also features the famous giant baby sculptures crawling up its exterior. Created by Czech artist David Černý, they were installed in 2000 as a temporary art project. They proved so popular—and so unmistakably associated with Prague—that they became a permanent part of the tower. The oversized, faceless babies are often interpreted as a playful or unsettling commentary on technology, surveillance, and the post-Communist era, although Černý has intentionally left their meaning open to interpretation.
That seems entirely consistent with Prague.
We arrived shortly after sunset, which proved to be ideal timing.
The views were spectacular.
As darkness settled in, Prague transformed into a sea of lights below us. From 66 meters above the ground, the city appeared entirely different—beautiful, dramatic, and almost surreal.
It was also an excellent evening for conversation.
Then came one of those small-world moments that seem to occur frequently on trips such as this.
John and Mary mentioned that they are friends with Mike Morvay from good ol Troop 492 if Rockville, MD. . As it turns out, Mike is now a fellow pilot, employed by NetJets.
It is indeed a small world.
Another excellent day in Prague and Central Bohemia, featuring history, silver mines, thousands of bones, Gothic cathedrals, Czech restroom economics, and dinner high above the city.
What d day!
September 13 — Farewell to Praha, Hello Passau
Farewell to Praha.
Hit the gym in the morning, then packed up and positioned the luggage for the move to the ship. We had one last leisurely breakfast buffet, which, as always, was excellent.
Then it was time to load the coach for the rainy 3½-hour drive to Passau.
We made our way through the rolling countryside and reached the German border around 3:50. From there, the scenery only got better—beautiful forested hills, little hamlets, and classic German countryside. Not a bad way to spend a rainy afternoon.
Our destination was Passau, famous for being the city where three rivers converge: the Danube, Inn, and Ilz.
And then… we were finally on board the Viking Embla!
First item on the agenda was the safety briefing, given by Captain Igor from Ukraine.
Then Mario, our Program Director, gave us the latest news on the river situation. The Danube is experiencing record-low water levels, so our itinerary remains flexible. With 51 crew members and 131 passengers aboard, we’ll apparently be keeping a close eye on the river—and staying flexible.
Mario also explained the nightly “Port Talk,” where we’ll get the scoop on what’s coming the next day.
As he was talking, the ship actually got underway, moving around the corner toward the city center and the old town of Passau. Pretty cool way to start the cruise.
Mario previewed tomorrow: a Passau walking tour and a Salzburg excursion. One important reminder: bring your passport, since we’re crossing from Germany into Austria.
While all of this was happening, the ship was quietly getting underway.
Then the chef got up to present the dinner recommendations.
And finally… dinner.
It was fantastic.
Although my traveling mates noticed my offense of ordering soup AND salad, followed by cake AND ice cream.
I may have gotten a little grief for that one.
But hey—we’re on a river cruise
The Viking Embla is a beautiful, purpose-built Viking Longship—elegant, modern, and surprisingly spacious for a river ship. At about 443 feet long, she carries roughly 190 guests and is designed with Viking’s signature Scandinavian style: clean lines, light-filled public spaces, and understated décor.
The ship feels more like a boutique hotel than a traditional cruise ship. Our stateroom has a comfortable hotel-style setup, with plenty of glass and outdoor space to take in the passing scenery. The main lounge and Aquavit Terrace provide great spots to relax, watch the river go by, and meet fellow passengers.
After our safety briefing, it finally felt official: we were on the river and our Viking adventure had begun.
September 14 — Passau, Salzburg & a Very Long Day
The streets were still wet from the night before, but at 60 degrees with scattered clouds, it was a pleasant morning for a walk. Another fantastic Viking breakfast buffet, followed by our 8:45 tour and the important news of where our ship would be berthed.
Passau
Passau is a beautiful old town of about 50,000 people, sitting at the confluence of three rivers. Our guide, Cornelia, supplied plenty of “corny” jokes as she introduced us to the city.
The architecture tells a story of Catholic grandeur. The Baroque style was, in many ways, an earthly representation of heaven on earth—elaborate, dramatic and unapologetically opulent.
Along the Danube, we saw high-water marks showing just how often Passau has been threatened by flooding. There have been many major floods over the centuries.
Above the city sits the bishops’ fortress, strategically overlooking the Danube. It was never conquered and provided the bishops a place of safety. We climbed through its beautiful staircase and learned about the importance of the fortress to Passau’s history.
Then came St. Stephen’s Cathedral—spectacular.
The exterior retains its Gothic character, with the pointed arches that were designed to draw the eyes upward toward heaven. Inside, however, the cathedral is an entirely different experience: elaborate Italian Baroque.
St. Stephen’s is really two cathedrals in one—the surviving Gothic heart wrapped in the spectacular Italian Baroque architecture that rose from the ashes of the 1662 fire, crowned by its distinctive green copper dome.
And the organ is enormous—the cathedral is home to one of the world’s largest cathedral organs.
We wandered through Passau’s cute little alleyways and shopping district before heading toward the tip of the peninsula, where the three rivers meet. The Danube, Inn and Ilz create a fascinating meeting of waters, with noticeably different colors.
We covered most of Passau during the morning. At noon, Rebecca headed off to a cathedral organ concert while I enjoyed a wonderful lunch.
Off to Salzburg
At 1:00, we boarded the bus for Salzburg and our Sound of Music dinner experience. It was apparently going to be a 2½-hour drive.
The ship, meanwhile, would continue down the Danube to Linz, where we would meet it later.
Somewhere around a roundabout, my phone suddenly welcomed me to Austria and reminded me about my Verizon service. Okay—must be Austria!
The Salzburg region is spectacular country, surrounded by Alpine mountains and beautiful lakes.
We passed through Oberndorf, the birthplace of Silent Night. The song was composed and first performed there in 1818. According to the story, the church organ was broken, so the song was performed with guitar accompaniment. That humble beginning produced one of the world’s most famous Christmas carols.
Salzburg — Sound of Music Country
As we approached Salzburg, our bus guide put on the song: “Do-Re-Mi.”
Rebecca was humming along before we even got there.
The Alps rose dramatically in the distance, with the mountains around the famous WWII Eagle’s Nest region reminding us that this beautiful landscape also figured prominently in Hitler’s WWII history. We even learned about the enormous underground facilities and tunnels constructed into the mountains.
And, of course, I had Falco’s “Rock Me Amadeus” stuck in my head.
Salzburg is Mozart’s city, The Sound of Music city—and apparently a city of churches. We were told Salzburg has 56 Catholic churches, reportedly the same number as Rome.
We saw the famous Pegasus Fountain, where the Do-Re-Mi scene was filmed, sitting in the shadow of Salzburg Castle. We also passed the statue of Helen of Troy and Mozart’s birthplace.
Salzburg has plenty of famous sons. Besides Mozart, physicist Christian Doppler, namesake of the Doppler effect, was born here.
We made our way through the old city, including the area around the cathedral. At one point, there was a statue of Mary positioned so that, from just the right spot, a golden crown appears to sit perfectly on her head behind the cathedral. A clever little visual trick.
We also rode the funicular that climbs up to Salzburg Castle. And plenty more steps awaited us up at the Castle level.
Dinner — The Hills Were Alive
One of the highlights was the St. Peter, dating back to 803 and reputed to be the oldest restaurant in Europe.
Nearby is the cemetery where the von Trapp family was famously shown hiding from the Nazis in The Sound of Music. The real history and the Hollywood version don’t line up perfectly, but it was still fun to stand in a place so recognizable from the movie.
Then came dinner.
Live music filled St. Peter’s, and the evening became almost a full-blown Sound of Music dinner theater. The musicians played multiple songs from the movie, with the evening building toward the finale.
“Edelweiss.”
A pretty spectacular way to finish the Salzburg portion of the day.
Back to the Ship
Then came the final leg.
About 1½ hours from Salzburg to Linz, where our Viking ship was waiting.
We finally arrived around 10:00 p.m.
The ship had just arrived itself after making an approximately eight-hour river transit from Passau.
So while our ship had spent the day cruising down the Danube, we had managed to cover Passau, cross into Austria, drive to Salzburg, tour Mozart’s city, relive The Sound of Music, have dinner theater—and then chase our ship down the river.
A very long day. But a pretty great one.
September 15 — Linz, Austria
We started the morning with a walking tour from the ship, where we immediately encountered something you don’t see every day on a river cruise: fire department training involving kayaks and poles. Apparently, even the Danube gets its share of emergency preparedness.
Linz is Austria’s third-largest city, with a population of roughly 250,000, and it sits along the Danube near what was once the northern frontier of the Roman Empire. Today it is an interesting combination of industrial muscle and green space. There’s a major shipyard along the river, but plenty of parks and open areas as well.
We wandered through the Hauptplatz, Linz’s enormous central square, and into the historic center. Our guide pointed out the bridge and explained how, in the postwar years, Linz was divided between American and Soviet occupation zones—somewhat reminiscent of Berlin from 1945–1955.
Linz also has some significant connections to the darker chapters of Austrian history. Adolf Hitler spent part of his youth in Linz and considered it his hometown, and he made his announcement of the Anschluss—the annexation of Austria into Nazi Germany—in Linz in March 1938.
Fortunately, Linz has much better things to remember.
One of them is Johannes Kepler, who lived and worked here. The astronomer developed his famous laws of planetary motion while in Linz, helping establish the foundation for modern astronomy.
We passed the Old Cathedral, St. Ignatius, and then the Landhaus, where three Austrian coats of arms sit above the entrance. The architecture became increasingly ornate as we walked, culminating in some spectacular Baroque churches.
And speaking of Baroque churches…
ABCs — Another Bloody Church. Or “Another Baroque Church” They are aplenty!
But these are pretty impressive bloody churches.
The elaborate Baroque interiors were more than just decoration. After the Protestant Reformation, the Catholic Church used architecture, sculpture, painting and sheer visual spectacle to reinforce the faith and entice people back into Catholicism. The result is an almost overwhelming combination of gold, marble, frescoes and ornamentation.
Then came one of my favorite Austrian stories—the origin legend of the country’s red-white-red flag.
The traditional legend dates back to Leopold V, Duke of Austria, during the Third Crusade. At the Siege of Acre in 1191, Leopold supposedly fought alongside Richard the Lionheart and Philip II of France. After the city fell, Leopold planted his Austrian banner alongside those of the English and French.
According to the story, Richard somehow managed to seriously offend Leopold, allegedly ordering Leopold’s flag removed and disregarding his claim to a share of the victory.
Leopold was not amused.
He left the Crusade and eventually got his revenge.
When Richard the Lionheart was returning to England in 1192, he was shipwrecked and forced to travel through Europe in disguise. Leopold recognized him near Vienna and had him arrested.
He then turned Richard over to Emperor Henry VI, who demanded an enormous ransom—reportedly 150,000 marks.
The irony is hard to miss: Richard had gone to the Holy Land to fight Muslims, only to end up imprisoned by fellow Christian rulers when the Crusade was over.
And the Austrian flag? Legend says Leopold returned from battle wearing a white tunic covered in blood—except beneath his belt, producing the famous red-white-red pattern.
History may debate the story. Austrians certainly haven’t forgotten it.
After all that history, we needed coffee.
We stopped at a café high in the old town for a cappuccino and enjoyed some spectacular views over Linz and the Danube.
Then it was back to the ship for lunch.
To the Top of the Hill
After lunch, we headed back into the city center to figure out the tram system. We bought our tickets and boarded Tram 50 toward Pöstlingberg.
At that point, we really weren’t sure where we were going.
The conductor was announcing the stops in German, which didn’t exactly improve our confidence. So we adopted a very sophisticated European transportation strategy:
Stay on until the end.
Fortunately, the end of the line was exactly where we wanted to be—the top of the hill.
Pöstlingberg rises about 539 meters above sea level, and sitting dramatically on top is the magnificent Pöstlingberg Basilica.
The site began in 1716 with a small Pietà placed beside a weather cross. It eventually developed into an important pilgrimage destination, and the present Baroque church was built in the 1740s and dedicated to the Seven Sorrows of Mary.
The distinctive white twin towers dominate the Linz skyline. The basilica suffered major fires in 1919 and again in 1963, but was restored each time.
The hilltop also has a walking trail and some serious fortifications left over from the old defensive complex. We wandered around taking in the views before heading back down.
On the way, we made an important stop at an Apotheke for some practical supplies—eye drops and other necessities. River cruising isn’t all castles and cathedrals.
We also went on a wine quest.
Success!
We found some local Austrian Cabernet Sauvignon, which was promptly secured for the Kings the Kings being Jeff and Lori, also royalty .
Ship Talk — Finally Some Good News
This evening we received some very welcome news during Ship Talk.
The Danube water level has risen enough that we are now expected to be able to make the entire remaining journey without changing ships, stopping just short of Budapest.
After all the discussion about water levels and possible ship changes, this was excellent news.
Tonight we had a wonderful dinner out on the foredeck of the ship. As the lights of Linz began to come alive along the Danube, we sat back, enjoyed dinner, and watched the city slowly disappear behind us.
A pretty good way to finish a day that included Roman borders, crusaders, Kepler, Baroque churches, Austrian wine—and a tram ride where we had absolutely no idea where we were going.
September 16
We’re underway! I woke up this morning to the Viking Embla already moving downstream through the beautiful Wachau Valley. It was one of those perfect European mornings—clear skies, temperatures in the mid-70s, and the top deck calling our names.
We soon faced one of the more interesting parts of river cruising: a lock with very tight clearance. To make things even more interesting, another Viking vessel was coming through at the same time. There wasn’t much room between the ships and the lock walls, making for some impressive ship-handling.
As we continued downstream, we passed one picturesque village and hamlet after another. This is wine country, with vineyards dramatically terraced up the hillsides above the Danube. It’s Riesling country—much to Rebecca’s delight.
Cruise Director Mario kept us informed and entertained with his narration as we made our way through the valley.
We passed the castle at Dürnstein, perched high above the river. This is where Richard the Lionheart was held captive after returning from the Crusades. Apparently, even medieval kings occasionally found themselves dealing with an unexpected change in travel plans. This legend was discussed in yesterday’s narrative.
Meanwhile, Lori and Rebecca were getting their exercise on the fantail, walking laps around the deck.
Gottweig Abbey
We eventually tied up in Krems, where we watched the ship’s mooring process and enjoyed the scenery. Jeff King provided his own running commentary as our resident deckie extraordinaire.
From Krems, we boarded buses for the short trip to Göttweig Abbey, only about 15 minutes away. The abbey is an impressive sight even before you reach it. As we climbed the highway toward the hilltop, the massive complex seemed to tower over the surrounding countryside, with spectacular views back toward the Danube.
We started with a welcome film before our guided tour, including a fascinating look at the daily life of the Benedictine monks and the rules that govern their community.
The abbey itself was spectacular. The imperial wing featured enormous frescoes covering the ceilings, and the church contained beautiful artwork, including an altar depicting the Blessed Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus.
There are currently 31 monks living in the community.
One of the more entertaining discoveries was the painted clock face in the 2nd bell tower. During the reconstruction of the abbey, apparently they ran out of money before they could install the actual clock mechanism. So the clock was simply painted on—and consequently tells the correct time exactly twice a day.
The Wachau—pronounced va-khow—is also part of the Camino pilgrimage route, the Jakobsweg (Way of St. James) network, adding another layer of history to an already remarkable place.
We finished our visit with a demonstration of how one of the region’s traditional dumplings is made, apricot, followed by lunch back at the ship.
Back in Krems
After lunch, we walked into the old town of Krems and explored its historic streets before heading back toward the ship.
Then came some particularly good news at the evening ship talk: we’re going to make it all the way to Vienna by ship!
Because of the unusually low Danube water levels, that had been anything but certain. We were told it hasn’t been possible for Viking ships to make this entire run for the past five or six weeks. So getting through to Vienna feels like a bit of a victory.
And we celebrated in appropriate Austrian fashion with dinner: Taste of Austria—meats, mustard, cheeses, sauerkraut and plenty of good food.
A beautiful day on the Danube, a spectacular abbey, great weather, and, best of all, the river cooperating.
Tomorrow: Vienna!
Vienna — September 17
This morning we woke up in Vienna—but technically, I had already been awake a couple of times during the night.
First, we passed through another lock, squeezing within feet of another Viking vessel while rain poured down. Then I woke again as we approached Vienna, watching the lights of the city come into view. Not a bad way to arrive.
Now it was time for a walking tour, with everyone hoping the rain would hold off.
Well… we were rafted up alongside another Viking vessel, and the drizzle had already started.
Vienna is Austria’s capital and largest city, with a metropolitan population of roughly 2 million. Austria itself is about the size of Maine or South Carolina. Vienna is also home to one of the four major United Nations headquarters.
The city was originally settled by Celtic tribes around the 5th century BC before eventually becoming part of the Roman Empire.
Exploring Vienna
Our guide pointed out a distinctive red-roofed church that was presented to Emperor Franz Joseph by the citizens of Vienna in connection with his silver jubilee. We then headed underground—into the Vienna subway.
Our guide joked that we were entering the “subterranean tunnel,” but the station looked more like a very clean Penn Station.
We emerged at Karlsplatz and began our walk around the famous Ringstrasse, the grand boulevard that encircles Vienna’s historic center.
One thing our guide emphasized was the Viennese attitude toward rules and order. Apparently, Viennese people take rules seriously—and aren’t shy about reminding others when they aren’t following them. Usually in very direct German!
We passed several monuments reflecting Vienna’s complicated 20th-century history, including reminders of Nazism and socialism.
Maria Theresa & the Spanish Riding School
Our guide spoke particularly highly of Empress Maria Theresa and her accomplishments. Among other reforms, she expanded education, modernized aspects of the justice system, supported the sciences and arts, and helped establish institutions that shaped the Habsburg Empire.
Nearby was the famous Spanish Riding School, home of the Lipizzaner horses.
That led to one of the more remarkable stories of World War II: Operation Cowboy.
As the war was ending, a German officer worked with American forces under General Patton to protect and evacuate the Lipizzaner horses from the approaching Soviet forces. The horses were ultimately brought to safety.
The story later became the basis for the Disney film Miracle of the White Stallions.
Medieval Vienna
We could still see remnants of Vienna’s old fortifications, including sections of the original defensive walls and the ditch surrounding them.
In one city square, we encountered a particularly Viennese bit of practical information: the public WC was free for men—unless you wanted to use the “cabin,” which cost 50 cents. Apparently, “cabin” is the local term for the individual stall.
We also encountered Vienna’s mountain spring water fountains, which provide the city with remarkably fresh drinking water brought in from the Alps. Some fountains are labeled “Drinklets”—a nice reminder that Vienna takes its water seriously, too.
We then passed through the Jewish Quarter and learned about one of the darker chapters in Vienna’s medieval history. Our guide described how Duke Leopold V fabricated a crime against the Jewish population, using the accusation as a pretext for persecution and confiscation of Jewish wealth. Hundreds of Jews were imprisoned and killed, including people reportedly buried alive.
The Anker Clock
Between two buildings stands Vienna’s famous Anker Clock.
The clock tells a story about the passage of time. A child appears on one side, while a skeleton represents death on the other. Between them, slowly moving figures represent important people from Vienna’s history—emperors, musicians, composers and other notable figures.
A dragon at the bottom adds a little medieval drama.
The message is pretty straightforward: time moves slowly, but life moves quickly—from birth to death.
We continued on to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the spectacular Gothic centerpiece of Vienna.
Figuring Out the Subway
After the walking tour, Rebecca and I enjoyed one of the more satisfying parts of the day: riding the Vienna subway and figuring out how to make our way back to the Viking ship on our own.
Mission accomplished.
Biking the Danube
Later, we headed out for the bike orientation prior to our E-bike excursion.
It was overcast with a light drizzle, but the weather wasn’t enough to keep us off the bikes. We rode into Lower Austria, stopping occasionally for tourist information but spending most of the time simply riding.
About halfway through the ride, we stopped at a little riverside outdoor café and enjoyed a traditional Austrian soft drink before taking a ferry across the Danube. The drink is called Almdudler.
The ferry was a neat little operation. Its propulsion is provided by the current of the Danube itself. It pulled us across the river and then drifted toward the opposite bank before making its landing.
We continued along the river and eventually crossed back over a bridge spanning a flood-control gate, entering the long flood-control island.
From there we passed Danube Park and the Danube Tower.
The tower is the tallest building in Austria and even has a giant slide. It was once used for bungee jumping, although those days are apparently over.
The whole ride had a fantastic Austrian biking vibe—beautiful river scenery, excellent paths, villages, cafés and plenty of cyclists enjoying the Danube.
19 miles today.
A fantastic Danube River bike path and another great way to experience Austria.
Tomorrow: Bratislava, Slovakia.
9/18 — Bratislava, Slovakia
We woke up this morning to a foggy Danube and cool temperatures, but it was already clear that things were going to warm up. Today’s adventure was the “difficult” hike — about 300 feet of elevation up to Bratislava Castle.
Climbing Castle Hill
One of the first things we learned: in Slovakia, “hello” is “ahoj” — which sounds suspiciously like “ahoy” to a bunch of sailors!
As we made our way uphill, we quickly realized Bratislava is a very bike-friendly city. There are bike racks and even bike rails along some of the steep stairways, apparently designed to help cyclists negotiate the hills.
We also came across the Plague Column, reminders of just how devastating epidemics were in earlier centuries, and the site of a former synagogue that was demolished during the Communist era.
The city’s old fortifications were built in part to defend Bratislava against the Ottoman Turks — and, as our guide pointed out, they worked.
A Walk in the Sky
Then we stumbled onto something pretty spectacular.
High above the Danube, Estonian professional slackliner Jaan Roose was attempting an incredible stunt — walking a 666-meter slackline between Bratislava Castle and the UFO observation tower, roughly 80–95 meters above the river.
Roose, a three-time world champion, was attempting to walk back and forth across the line as part of a 12-hour endurance record attempt called “From Dawn to Dusk.”
Watching him calmly walk across what looked like a piece of string suspended hundreds of feet above the Danube was both fascinating and more than a little nerve-racking. The contrast was amazing: centuries of history surrounding us on the ground, while a modern-day daredevil was literally walking through the Bratislava skyline.
And the best part — he did it! Roose set a new world record today.
Bratislava Castle
Bratislava Castle sits high above the city, with massive defensive walls and four distinctive corner towers. Its position on the hill made it a natural defensive stronghold and provides some spectacular views.
Maria Christina, daughter of Maria Theresa and reportedly her favorite child, spent about 20 years here with her husband, Albert of Saxony-Teschen.
The castle has had quite a history. During the Communist period, the joke was that the Soviets set the Slovaks free — but forgot to leave. The Soviets refurbished the castle in 1968.
From the castle, you can see three countries at once — Slovakia, Austria and the Czech Republic. The wind turbines visible in the distance are in Austria. Hungary is only about a 20-minute drive away.
And somewhere over the hills to the east, according to our guide, is Transylvania — although that one is a little more of a stretch!
We could also see Bratislava’s unusual television tower, which looks remarkably like a giant wine bottle.
Below us stands a massive Soviet war memorial depicting a Soviet soldier stepping on a swastika while holding the Soviet flag — a very powerful reminder of the city’s complicated 20th-century history.
Back Through the Old Town
After the castle, we wandered pleasantly through the old town. We got a great view of St. Michael’s Gate, one of Bratislava’s best-known landmarks. St. Michael is shown above the gate slaying the dragon.
We also encountered a statue of Agatha, associated with the old legends about witches in Bratislava, and a shepherd flutist whose music provided a little taste of traditional Slovak culture.
At a café, we sampled Slovakian beverages — and discovered the kid-friendly version: soda that the kids call their non alcoholic wine. Somehow that sounded better than it probably should have.
Lunch was “off campus,” away from the main old-town square, at Koliba Kamzík. We immediately renamed it Cosmic Goat, which seemed appropriate enough.
A Sobering History Lesson
The afternoon brought a very different experience.
Our Program Director, Mario, gave a lecture on growing up in Communist Europe. Mario is from Romania, and his firsthand perspective made the history considerably more personal.
He described nationalization and collectivization, along with mass deportations and imprisonments. He also talked about the severe austerity experienced by ordinary people — food shortages, ration cards and a lack of many basic necessities.
It was a sobering look at life under Romania’s Communist dictatorship of Nicolae Ceaușescu, and a reminder that the Cold War period isn’t ancient history for many of the people we’ve met on this trip.
One Last Dinner Aboard
We enjoyed our final dinner onboard Viking, and it was a particularly good one — made even more special because John and Mary were celebrating their 45th wedding anniversary.
Unfortunately, the Danube had other plans for us.
Water levels are too low for the ship to continue all the way to Budapest, so we’re stopping tonight at Komárom. Our Budapest itinerary will now operate from Komárom, meaning tomorrow brings the great bus shuffle — and tonight, we had to pack accordingly.
It has been quite a day: a castle, three countries from one hilltop, centuries of history, a world-record slackliner walking above the Danube, traditional music, Slovak wine, a sobering look at Communist Romania, and one last dinner aboard the ship.
Tomorrow…
Budapest!
Sep 19
9/19 — Budapest: The Final Day
Our last day had arrived. We were all packed up, said goodbye to our attentive Viking crew, and loaded onto the buses in Komárom for the 1½-hour, 56-mile drive southwest to Budapest.
The scenery along the way was a mix of agriculture and forest, looking surprisingly similar to Pennsylvania.
Once in Budapest, we began our “Panoramic” city tour—more of a bus tour than a walking tour. Budapest is known as the “Pearl of the Danube,” and even from the bus, it definitely had the feel of a major European capital.
Our first stop was the Inner City Parish Church, with origins going back roughly 1,000 years and built over the remains of a Roman fortress. The church has an interesting mix of architectural styles, including Gothic and Baroque elements.
As has become our tradition on this trip, Rebecca lit candles in each of the churches we visited.
The church also contains a tiny sliver of wood said to be a relic of the original Cross of Jesus. It was presented to the church in 1934 by Pope Pius XI.
Once again, we had a perfect-weather day. The next stop was the Buda side of the city.
There were goulash and lángos shops everywhere. Goulash gets its name from gulyás, meaning herdsman—basically the Hungarian version of a cowboy. Paprika is the signature spice, and lángos is a popular street food made from fried dough. We were definitely in Hungary!
We made our way up Gellért Hill to the Citadella, the Habsburg fortress overlooking the city. The views were spectacular. For the first time on the trip, the Danube actually looked blue.
The stop was a little rushed, and by this point we were getting pretty tired. But we could see the Buda Palace from the Citadel and had great views of the city.
We crossed the Chain Bridge, which connects Buda and Pest, and continued through the city. The Hungarian Parliament Building was particularly impressive, with its beautiful Gothic spires. We also passed St. Stephen’s Basilica.
After the morning tour, we headed to the Hotel Dorothea. We checked in quickly and were soon back on the bus for our next adventure—the famous Budapest thermal baths.
There are hundreds of thermal springs beneath the city, and our Viking crew gave us extremely detailed instructions on how to use our proxy-watch wristbands, access our cabins, lock everything up, and get through the turnstiles. Let’s just say they covered every possible detail… ad nauseam.
Then it was time for the Széchenyi Thermal Baths.
The baths were really nice, and the mineral-rich thermal water is supposed to help rejuvenate tired muscles. I have to admit, after spending some time in the water, I felt pretty darn good.
We tried the whirlpool/cyclone pool and even managed to get in a couple of laps.
For our final dinner in Budapest, we headed downtown to Paprika Kitchen & Bar, where we had a wonderful Hungarian meal featuring some great local food.
A pretty fitting way to end the trip.
Great destinations, great traveling people and great times, has come to its end.
Tomorrow, it’s time to head home.
