Day 5 Balklans Trip Zagreb-2

April 21, Day 2 in Zagreb Croatia

 

 

This is a Funicular ^^^^

Zagreb unfolded for us as one of those cities that doesn’t shout—it hums. And if you listen closely (or hop on a convertible bus with headphones), it tells a pretty great story.

We kicked things off at Dolac Market, coffee and pastries in hand, easing into the morning the way the Croats seem to prefer—unhurried. There’s a rhythm here: sip, sit, watch. I grabbed a banana from a fruit vendor to round things out, because nothing says “balanced breakfast” like pastry followed by a token piece of fruit. The market itself was vibrant—fresh produce, local goods, and just enough souvenirs to remind you where you are without hitting you over the head with it.

A quick stop at the visitor center pointed us toward Zagreb City Tours and their hop-on, hop-off bus. “Great way to see the city,” they said. What they didn’t mention was that you actually have to catch the bus. We jogged (lightly… let’s not exaggerate), missed the first stop, wandered to the second, overshot the third, and eventually surrendered to patience—waiting nearly an hour before finally boarding. Very on-brand for the day: we were learning to slow down, whether we liked it or not.

Once aboard, though, it delivered. Zagreb revealed itself in layers—history, culture, and a few fun facts tucked in. Like the city being the home of the fountain pen, thanks to Slavoljub Eduard Penkala, and Croatia’s role in popularizing the necktie, or “cravat.” Not bad for a country quietly shaping global style.

The iconic blue trams rolled by constantly—part of the city’s fabric since 1910, electric and efficient, gliding through streets lined with greenery. Zagreb is full of parks, squares, and flowers—so many flowers. The highlight being the elegant Lenuci Horseshoe, a U-shaped string of parks and public spaces that gives the city its open, breathable feel.

At one café, we were. surrounded—flanked, really—by smokers (clearly another local custom).

Just after that, Kurt was interviewed by a local reporter about U.S.  political views.  I abstained from commenting.  Kurt was a “tad” more vocal. 

At one point on the tour bus, a South African pensioner asked if we were American or British. I said “American,” to which she replied, “ Sorry…. Another sign of the world political sentiment towards Americans.

Lunch took us to “Submarine”where the burgers absolutely delivered—no hesitation calling them best. We shared a table-side moment with a local couple and their corgi, Becky, who may have been the real star of the meal.

We attempted to ride the Zagreb Funicular—one of the shortest in the world—but it was closed. Still, we climbed up to the top station and were rewarded with sweeping views of the city’s red-tiled roofs and layered skyline. Not a bad consolation prize.

The rest of the afternoon was a blur of wandering—pedestrian streets, cafés, and our best attempt to “act Croatian,” which mostly meant sitting longer and doing less. Weather kept things interesting: cold and gray one minute, sunny and warm the next, followed by a quick rain just to keep everyone honest.

After an afternoon of adventuresome wandering, we accidentally happened upon a true gem of a restaurant.  Literally tucked back into an alley, we dined at Kia Street Food where the vibe, service, and of course the dinner was absolutely top notch.  Had to leave a Trip Advisor review for that one stating the same. 

By the end of it, Zagreb didn’t feel like a checklist city—it felt like a place you settle into. A little slower, a little more observant, and maybe just a bit better at enjoying a coffee without rushing off to the next thing.

Day 4 Balkans Trip Zagreb, Croatia

 

Tour Guide Danielle on “Walk with Tito tour”

4/20

Day 1 in Zagreb: Rain, History, and a Different Side of the Balkans

Today we arrived in Zagreb, Croatia, after a smooth but rainy transition from Ljubljana. The morning started with breakfast at the Cubo Hotel before our driver picked us up right at 9:00 a.m. for what turned into about a 90-minute ride crossing the border into Croatia.

The drive itself was easy, but the weather had other plans. The rain began just as we left Ljubljana and stuck with us the entire way, setting a gray tone for our arrival. Pulling into Zagreb, the city immediately felt like a proper metropolitan hub—busy, structured, and a bit more urban than what we’d experienced so far.

We were dropped off right in front of the towering Zagreb Cathedral, a striking centerpiece of the city. Its twin spires rise about 150 meters, though unfortunately for us, they were wrapped in scaffolding, hiding what must normally be a pretty spectacular view.

After getting our bearings, we made our way to the Airbnb. Our host—a friendly Korean gentleman—showed us up to a third-floor apartment that felt more like a full home: four bedrooms, a kitchen, laundry, the works. Best of all, it overlooks Dolac Square, which we learned transforms into a lively vendor market on dry days. Something to look forward to if the weather cooperates tomorrow.

The highlight of the day came at 3:00 p.m. when we met up with a guide  for a “Walk with Tito Tour.” What followed was one of the more fascinating history lessons I’ve had in a long time. We walked through the evolution of the region—from the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, through World War II and the communist era, and into modern Croatian independence.

Learning about Josip Broz Tito and his 45 years of rule added a whole new layer of understanding to a part of the world I honestly didn’t know much about before. It’s one thing to read about it, but another entirely to stand in the streets where it all unfolded.

We wrapped up the day with dinner at a cozy organic vegetarian spot—simple, healthy, and surprisingly satisfying after a long, damp day of travel and walking.

Rain aside, Zagreb made a strong first impression. Looking forward to seeing it come alive tomorrow—hopefully without the umbrella.

Day 3 Balkans Trip

 4/19

Day two in Slovenia had a little bit of everything—some frustration, a lot of beauty, and the kind of moments that remind you why you travel in the first place.

The adventure actually picked up where last night left off, with Tim explaining haven’t taken taken a €120 hit from a cab driver on the ride from the airport to the hotel. Not exactly the welcome you hope for, especially after he’d already missed his connection into Ljubljana and endured an unexpected 11-hour layover in Amsterdam.

This morning, though, things turned around. We woke up to a relaxed and genuinely good breakfast at Hotel Cubo—a clean, modern spot right in the city that set a much better tone for the day. From there, we decided to get out of town and headed for Lake Bled.  About an hour out of town. 

We took a bus both ways, which turned out to be a great call. The ride itself was part of the experience, rolling through the Slovenian countryside—green fields, alpine villages, and distant peaks that start to hint at the Julian Alps. It’s the kind of scenery that doesn’t need exaggeration.

Once we arrived, Bled delivered exactly what it promises. In the middle of the lake sits Bled Island, home to the iconic Church of the Assumption. The structure dates back centuries and has that classic European look—stone, a tall bell tower, and a staircase leading up from the water that feels almost ceremonial.

Getting out there are the traditional wooden boats known as Pletna boats. These are hand-rowed by standing oarsmen and have been part of life on the lake for generations—sort of a cross between a gondola and a water taxi, but with a distinctly Slovenian identity. Watching them glide across the water adds to the whole postcard feel of the place.

Above it all, perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the lake, is Bled Castle. It’s one of those views that makes you stop mid-conversation—just a castle hanging over a lake like something out of a movie set.

We spent the afternoon walking the entire perimeter of the lake at an easy pace. Along the way, we passed fishermen quietly working for carp, rowing crews slicing through the water in racing shells, and plenty of spots where the light hits just right and you feel like you should probably just sit for a while.

At one point we stopped for a simple lunch—pizza and the famous local dessert, Bled cream cake. The cream cake lived up to the hype—light, rich, and exactly what you want after a long walk.

After bussing back to Ljubljana, we wrapped up the night with dinner at a local spot in the city—nothing fancy, just good food and a chance to wind down. Second night of the trip, and it’s catching up to all of us. Between the travel, the walking, and the fresh air, we’re ready to hit the rack.

Tomorrow, we’re back on the move—transit bus heading south into Croatia for the next leg of the adventure

Day 2 Balkans trip Ljubljana, Slovenia

 April 18, 2026

Just wrapping up what feels like a marathon day of travel. Honestly, it started yesterday morning in Orlando, but the real push came with the overnight flight out of JFK—a 6½-hour all-nighter to Paris. All things considered, it was a pretty smooth flight. A couple of hours spent navigating Charles de Gaulle, and then it was on to a smaller Air France feeder flight—“Hop”—into Ljubljana, Slovenia.

As we dropped below the clouds on approach, the first impression hit immediately: this place is tucked into the mountains, surrounded by natural beauty, and it just feels outdoorsy in the best way. You can tell right away it’s a place where people get outside and take advantage of the landscape.

Met up with Kurt and Rick at baggage claim, and once again, the AirTags proved their worth—nothing like that little bit of reassurance knowing your bags actually made the trip with you. From there, we grabbed a cab into town and headed to our home base for the next couple of nights, the Cubo Hotel.

After getting settled, a very helpful concierge pointed us in the right direction for a quick walking tour. The town has a great central feel to it, anchored by a castle perched just above a charming riverfront area. The Riverwalk itself is lined with trendy little sidewalk cafés, giving the whole place a relaxed but lively vibe.

We grabbed dinner at one of those cafés, which was exactly what the moment called for. But by that point, the long stretch of travel had fully caught up with me. Conversation was fading, eyelids were heavy, and it became pretty obvious—it was time to call it a night

Day 1 Balkans Trip

 And So It Begins 4/17/2026

And so it begins.

I boarded Delta 2702 (MCO-JFK) today, but not without a little turbulence before even leaving the ground. Last night, I went to check in for my flight only to discover my listing had been canceled. Not exactly what you want to see at crunch time before a three-week trip. After an hour on the phone with a couple of Delta agents, I finally got rerouted—same general timing, same fare—but now going through Charles de Gaulle instead. Problem solved, but not exactly stress-free.

This morning was also a sprint to get out the door. It was a scramble to tie up loose ends at home and get going, the usual pre-trip chaos turned up just a notch, since it was a pretty quick turnaround from my last trip, biking the C&O canal last weekend. Now I’m finally onboard, heading toward Slovenia by way of JFK and Paris, and things are starting to settle into that familiar rhythm of travel.

Somehow, I scored an upgrade to Comfort+, which was a nice little win. I’m flying in uniform—it’s what Trish calls my “cute little outfit.” I’ll take it. It sure greases a few skids, making some of travel frustrations a bit easier.

While waiting to board, I noticed both jump seats were taken by Delta pilot commuters heading to work. One of them was an old Express captain I remember from the Orlando days. He’s been commuting for over 21 years now, and you can tell—it’s a grind. All those years of commuting seem to have taken their toll—that aged look that comes from years of commuting to arrive in JFK and fly an “all nighter” across the pond. Watching the scene at the gate area unfold gave me a feeling of gratitude that I chose to fly out of MCO all of these years . As the gate area thinned out and the final standby names were being called, I got that same familiar “butterflies” feeling that always show up at the edge of departure, hoping for your name to be called.  Not so on this trip with a paid seat!

It’s one of the underrated perks of being based in Orlando—no commute. Moments like that are a good reminder.

A couple of unusual moves for this trip: I checked a bag… and I packed an umbrella. Yes, an actual umbrella made the packing list. I can hardly believe it myself.

Three weeks, multiple countries, and a lot ahead. But for now, wheels up soon—and just like that, the adventure is underway

Day 1 on the C&O Canal

 I’m writing this from a front porch glider at Bill’s Place in Little Orleans, the kind of spot that feels like it hasn’t changed in decades—and thankfully so. It’s the perfect place to exhale after our first day on the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, legs pleasantly tired and a cheeseburger-and-fries kind of satisfied.

The morning started with a bite in the air, the kind that has you second-guessing your layering strategy. But as the miles ticked by, the sun did its job and one by one, the extra layers disappeared into jersey pockets. What we were left with was just about perfect riding weather and a ribbon of trail that delivered all day long.

The highlight—no question—was rolling through the Paw Paw Tunnel. At nearly three-fifths of a mile, it’s long enough to feel like you’ve entered another world. The darkness swallows you up, the temperature drops, and the sound of your tires echoes off the damp brick walls. Then, just as you settle into the rhythm of it, you see the light ahead—and bursting out the other side feels nothing short of spectacular.

We also had plenty to look at beyond the trail itself. Wildlife was out in force—mostly painted turtles sunning themselves on logs in the canal, completely unconcerned with our passing. We spotted a couple of wild turkeys, plenty of Canada gooses, and ducks along the way. Add in trees just starting to pop with spring blooms, and the whole ride had that fresh, early-season feel that’s hard to beat.

The riding itself? About as good as it gets. Long stretches of smooth, “champagne” gravel made for effortless cruising, the kind of surface that lets you forget about the bike and just enjoy the ride. No real suffering to speak of today—just a steady, rewarding 44 miles in the books.

Rolling into Bill’s Place was the ideal finish. Simple, classic, and exactly what you want after a day like this. Cheeseburgers, fries, and that deep, earned contentment that only comes from hours in the saddle.

What made the day even better, though, was the nostalgia. This stretch of the canal isn’t new to me. As a kid growing up around here, I spent plenty of time along the C&O—canoe trips, Boy Scout outings, family hikes. Riding it now feels like flipping through an old photo album, except this time I’m doing it on two wheels.

Tonight’s lodging is at the Town Hill Bed and Breakfast, and JP and I took care of the shuttle logistics like responsible adults. Johnny Mac, on the other hand, has different plans. Apparently, 44 miles of smooth gravel wasn’t quite enough. He’s opted to tack on an extra nine miles—straight up—with about 1,600 feet of elevation gain.

Every group ride has one. Johnny Mac just volunteered.

Met some other bikers at our Bed and Breakfast that had a car, and we got a ride to Berkeley Springs WV.  Proof restaurant was very nice. 

Day 2 on the C&O Canal

Day two began high above it all—perched at 1,680 feet on Town Hill, looking out over western Maryland from our cozy Airbnb. The morning started right, thanks to Lisa, our bed-and-breakfast host, who put together a truly glorious breakfast that set the tone for the day.

From there, we caught a shuttle down to Bill’s Place, dropping us toward the Potomac River and the I-68 gap. The descent was dotted with redbud trees in full bloom—bursts of spring color that made it hard to focus on the road. We even crossed paths with Mac on the way down before arriving at Bill’s Place to pick up the Western Maryland Rail Trail.

The rail trail itself was a dream—freshly paved, smooth, and fast. We cruised along for 27 miles, soaking in one of those perfect spring days where everything just clicks. Around mile 17, we paused in Hancock, making the obligatory stop at the post office and the C&O Bike Shop. It was here that Mac made a bold—and necessary—decision: the iPad had to go. One quick mailing later, and just like that, the weekend was officially work-free.

As the miles rolled on, so did the people. More cyclists appeared—many on e-bikes—and hikers too, especially as we approached Williamsport. About five miles north of town, we passed a U.S. Park Ranger who seemed to be dealing with some vaguely described “nefarious hillbilly goings-on.” We chose not to investigate further and kept the pedals turning.

Our riding strategy for the day evolved into something a bit more… seasoned: ride 10 miles, stop; repeat until mile 30, then shift to stops every five miles for a quick stretch. Call it age-appropriate optimization for the 60+ crowd.

Williamsport greeted us with history. Our first stop was the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park museum, where we got a fascinating look into the canal’s working life—right up until its closure in 1924. It added a deeper appreciation for the path we were riding.

The day wrapped up just outside town at Shady Sycamore Farm, a charming Airbnb run by our host, Keely—one of the “super hosts” who truly lives up to the title. Later, we headed into town for dinner at Ric’s Restaurant, where we met Ric himself. Small-world moment: he knew Lenny from the Stained Glass Pub. Connections like that seem to find you out here.

Back at the farm, we caught the splashdown of the Artemis program off San Diego—an incredible sight and a fitting capstone to the day. There was a shared sense of accomplishment in the air, the kind that comes after a long ride, good food, and meaningful moments.

Another glorious day along the C&O Canal—about 42 miles in the books. This place really is a national treasure.