San Blas Island: home of the native Guna indians

7/24/14  San Blas Day

Felix was ready at the gate of the Dolans house at 0530  Not surprisingly we were running a little late, but were underway without too much turmoil.  The drive to San Blas is a 2 1/2 hour ride through Panama City, and past Tocumen airport.  The traffic going into the city was ridiculous, again we were headed against traffic, and our congestion was minimal.  Definitely not enough road infrastructure in this country for the amount of traffic.  We needed a driver this morning, as our rental maxi van is not a 4 X 4, and that  is a requirement  on the road to San Blas.  So, the road down to the San Blas turn off is pretty straight, however, as soon as we made the turn off, that feature changes drastically.  The approximately 38 kilometers across the ridge is winding and steep, both ascending, descending, and quite curvy.  In fact, I understand some of our crew were under the influence of Dramamine.  Yes, that ride was like an E ticket ride at Disney, and pretty harrowing.  About two thirds of the way through the San Blas road, there is a check point to enter the Cuna Indian Territory.  There is almost a "customs/immigration" feel to this stop, and our passports were verified, but most importantly the fees for passage were paid.  At long last, we finally made it down the back side of the ridge and the coast line appeared, seemingly out of nowhere.  Thie landing and embarcation area was called the Marine Terminal, and panga boats were busily shuttling tourists and others between the mainland and the 365 islands of the San Blas.  Our boat driver was named Erik, and he met us at the car drop off point.  He loaded us into his panga boat, which Ryan excitedly pointed out had twin engines, although the Yamahas were of different horsepower.  Another party joined us, but we dropped them off at their isla hotel, and continued on to a sandbar for a photo opportunity.  Rachel immediately found a star fish in the knee deep water, and we were all amazed at this tropical paradise of white sands and beautiful, clear azure waters.

Our first island was Isla Perrito.  A beautiful palm tree lined island with a wreck at the beach front that was loaded with snorkeling visual treasures.  Schools of neon fish, anemonies, corals, and lovely reef fish populated the wreck which held our rapt attention.  At this island, the Cuna women were selling their wares, and the kids took a picture with one in front of her Mola display. A mola is an embroidered wall hanging featuring Cuna designs and local animal, which has become a trademark of Panamanian culture.  Being the mercantilists that they are, the picture cost us $2.00.  The Cuna vendor was less than a bit upset when Melinda snapped off another photo without the $2.00 payment.

After a quick lunch fromm our cooler full of sandwiches, we went to the second and last island of the day, called Isla Perro.  A few less people were about, and a reef was right off the beach.  The grassy area of the swimming area was loaded with urchins, and young spiny lobster.  We again observed all nature of beautiful reef fishes, and Ryan and I caught a slipper lobster, and after some photos, released it.  We spent most of the afternoon basking in tropical luxury under the bountiful palm trees, with a gentle breeze and viewing the magical islands of San Blas.

At 3 sharp, our pre designated pick up time, Erik returned with the panga to bring us back to the mainland.  We did a brief haggling for some lobsters, and got 6 for $30.  It is tough to get a good deal when the whole family is bargaining against you, in favor of the seller.

Most of our group were asleep for most of the ride home, but the Dramamine must've worn off since there was some talk of motion sickness on the roller coaster road revisited.

Got home to a grand meal of puerco, again prepared by Brisa, and we added lobster tails to the mix culminating in a Panamanian feast!  A great day indeed.

Wed 7/23 Playa in Panama

Woke up at the Dolan's home in Coronado with the intention of hitting a dawn patrol surf session.  We had timed the tide incorrectly yesterday, and with a little swell still running, thought we could have better luck in the early a.m.  We loaded up 2 reluctant and sleepy Pletcher boys to hit Playa Tetas,, which was flat.  We then ventured to Playa Palmar, also to no avail.  Low tide, and limited swell made for way less than optimal conditions.  We headed back to the Coronado beach house, and  just chilled out most of the morning.  However as the adults are enjoying Panamanian relaxation mode, these cousins are constantly in the water for multiple hours of the day, playing games, and having some great cousin fun.  By mid morning, they were all down at the beach, playing games in the hot, black Pacific sands, and enjoying the warm Pacific waters of Coronado.  About midday, Matthew came up to the house, and said to grab the longboard, as Dylan and Ryan were surfing the unnamed Point.  I got down to the beach just in time to see Rebecca breaking up a fight between the two surf groms, who were beating each other with borrowed surfboards.  That was the end of Dylan's surf fun, but Ryan paddled back out.  He, Matthew, and I surfed a  few fun peelers at the Point before the tide became too high and killed what little surf was sneaking through.  Due to the teenage boy altercation, that Point was named "Fight Club" Point, and will be known as such in perpetuity.

The plan today included going to El Valle in the interior of Panama.  If memory serves correct, it is the 2nd largest inhabited volcanic crater in the world.  Our family has visited it multiple times, so I was not disappointed when time ran out due to a playful afternoon of cousin activities poolside.

By mid afternoon, we sadly departed Coronado to return to the old Canal Zone.  The ride was a pleasant one, always seeming shorter than remembered.  The maxi van was at max capacity with the Pletcher and  Neimeyer families, and two Grimisons.  Traffic favored us as we headed back into Panama City against the rush hour flow, passing the Chula Vieja, or witches house.

We stopped at the "Cuna Cages" for some souvenirs, and did some customary haggling for the trinkets and curios they had for sale.  We purchased a couple of interesting mola prints, and the kids bought their favorite "weenies" which are small beaded bracelets.  Rebecca needed to purchase a visor, and it was $5.00.  I gave her $4.00 for the purchase with the expected haggling to ensue.  She was reluctant to haggle, and I put the $4.00 into the vendor's hands.  He laughed, and correctly assumed that it didn't matter, since he pegged Rebecca for the stiff bargaineer that she is, who would return to pay him the additional dollar.  I intervened before that could occur, but found the whole transaction quite amusing.

Tuesday 7/22 in Panama

7/22 tues

Went to playa palmar for beach day.  This is the beach that Rebecca has fond memories of from her high school days, and many beach party weekends. We got a slow star, but finally got to Ernie Holland's home on the beach. His dad, Coach Holland was Reb's track coach in high school, and he was there to greet his "track star" The boys and I surfed little Hawaii, it was small but somewhat fun. Kids have moved from gathering mangoes to gathering and eating coconuts, opening them with a knife  and drinking the coco milk. All the kids played in the shore pound surf. Back to Dolan's beach house, and the kids are loving the pool and company of their cousins. Eating a lot of empanadas bread zucaritas Maria cookies. Ceviche. Laid back afternoon. Surprised to not be more torn up by sea lice. Over to Tom christina and Melinda condo at coronado for pool cocktails and sunset. At the "sunset gathering" the Fahy family showed up, so Tom and 5 of his kids were there to view the wonderful sunset in Coronado over the Pacific Ocean.  Bill displayed his "go" bag with his survival gear, aka Special Ops survival stuff.