Tuesday, October 28, 2008

10/24/2008

Planned on the trip to El Valle, but Richard, Patrick, Dito, and Brandon were going back to Tits. It seemed very difficult to pass on that opportunity. Again, the trip El Valle was pushed back. I loaded up my boys and boards and we b-lined it to Tetas. The tide was right, and the swell was right. So, the boys tried the front, but it was still a little intense, so they retreated to the river for some more fun. I paddled out to join Richard at the point. It was a great time, the wave was framing up, pitching out, an walling to the left. Got some great waves. I exited the agua thoroughly exhausted, replete with surf, only to observe Patrick tearing up the Front as if he were shredding a vintage twin fin circa 1979. After a couple hour sesh, took Brandon, Dylan, and Ryan to El Rey--Crunchies and Kist!! It has become a favorite. CLICK PLAY TO VIEW VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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