Panama October 20, 2009 (Road trip day)
We woke up early for a run, then pack our belongings for a day trip to the Panamanian interior. Panama lies on an East-West reference, so anything to the West of Panama City is referred to as the “interior” It is a place Rebecca and I have never been to. Interestingly, due to the E-W reference of the country, at certain vantage points along the coast, the sun can be seen to rise along the “left” horizon, and set along the “right” horizon, which seems odd to most gringos who are used to the sun rising and falling directly out to sea from their coast.
Our ultimate destination is Playa Venal. The waves have been pretty disappointing in Pal Mar, so a road trip is in order! We have consulted the Panama tour book and are excited to chart some new territory. Our first stop is a wonderful little discovery in the tiny village of El Cano. Here is an archeological park which amazes us. The Parque Arquelogico de El Cano is the site of many burial mounds of the pre-Colombian indigenous tribes of Panama. One of the mounds is still being actively excavated, and there is also a small museum on the grounds. The museum contains artifacts from previous digs, although, many of the artifacts have been removed in the 1930s and moved to the American Indian museum in Nueva York, Norte America.
Artifacts include pottery and skeletal remains, and a Spanish speaking guide is on hand to discuss the site, park, and museum. I did not follow the Spanish too well, so Rebecca translated much of the content for me. Our guide must have been fairly amused at this gringo couple trying to pay attention to our guide while hopping and slapping, and doing the mosquito dance in the mosquito infested grounds. We are swarmed by mouskeeters, subsequently bitten badly, and forced to depart the park, happily educated on the archeology of the park.
As we continue Westward, we progress further on the Inter-American highway, we arrive at Divisa, which is the town we make a turn southbound for the Azuero Peninsula, which is the cradle of Panamanian folklore. It is the area most famously known for the annual “carnival” festivities, and the birthplace of the Panamanian dress, the polerro, widely accepted as the most beautiful dress in the world. We pass the towns of Penonome, El Chitre, and Las Tablas, and are a bit surprised at the size of their urban populace.
Outside Las Tablas, we stop at an outdoor restaurant which is favored by locals, and we enjoy a very nice, inexpensive meal while dining in a very pleasant setting. Continuing southbound, we arrive at Pedasi, a beautifully maintained seaside village, with beautiful Spanish colonial dwellings along the roadway. It looks like it would be a nice place to explore, however we are eager to continue to Venal!!
The road from Las Tablas to Pedasi, although only a 2 lane road, is a wonderful stretch of new ashphalt with little traffic, and lends itself to a fast pace in the world’s fastest car—a rental!
Close to Playa Venal, our directions become a bit muddled, so we pull off a highly rutted dirt road with signs pointing to La Playita resort. Emus and chickens walk the grounds of this eco-like resort which is nestled on the shore of a protected bay with beautiful Pacific Coast scenery all about. We walk the grounds, and are always considering possible future vacations with the kids.
We get directions to Playa Venal and get back on the road for another 1.5 km. Rounding the corner for the Venal turnoff, we are instantly aware of the large swell in the half moon bay, beach break
In seconds, I shell off my travelling clothes, and am trunk-ated and rash guarded, and paddling out into the line up.
I am in the agua enjoying the power of the Pacific swell, with overhead set waves and peeling left and right. A long period swell of 18 seconds requires patience, although the payoff is mejor.
Rebecca lays on the beach reading, and at one point urns her back to the ocean for a more comfortable relaxation, and her belongings are soaked from an incoming wave with the approaching high tide. It is mostly all of her clothing and towels, however, our camera is also lost to the salt water drowning.
The surf sesh turns into a 3 hour pursuit of indulgence, and just prior to sunset, I exit the water happy and spent. As is true to many Central American surf trips, I meet two Florida surfers in the lineup, one being a former Atlantic side Zonian named James Brown, who is familiar with the Grimison family.
Back in the car, we drive straight through to Palmar, discovering a shortcut around each of the urban centers of Las Tablas and El Chitre. It is only a 4 hour drive back to the Hollands’ in Pal Mar, so in all I drove for 9 hours, to surf for 3. I am blessed with an adventurous travel partner and wife!
Throughout the drive I contemplate, who pays the machete man who clears the roadside grasses and vegetation?
We woke up early for a run, then pack our belongings for a day trip to the Panamanian interior. Panama lies on an East-West reference, so anything to the West of Panama City is referred to as the “interior” It is a place Rebecca and I have never been to. Interestingly, due to the E-W reference of the country, at certain vantage points along the coast, the sun can be seen to rise along the “left” horizon, and set along the “right” horizon, which seems odd to most gringos who are used to the sun rising and falling directly out to sea from their coast.
Our ultimate destination is Playa Venal. The waves have been pretty disappointing in Pal Mar, so a road trip is in order! We have consulted the Panama tour book and are excited to chart some new territory. Our first stop is a wonderful little discovery in the tiny village of El Cano. Here is an archeological park which amazes us. The Parque Arquelogico de El Cano is the site of many burial mounds of the pre-Colombian indigenous tribes of Panama. One of the mounds is still being actively excavated, and there is also a small museum on the grounds. The museum contains artifacts from previous digs, although, many of the artifacts have been removed in the 1930s and moved to the American Indian museum in Nueva York, Norte America.
Artifacts include pottery and skeletal remains, and a Spanish speaking guide is on hand to discuss the site, park, and museum. I did not follow the Spanish too well, so Rebecca translated much of the content for me. Our guide must have been fairly amused at this gringo couple trying to pay attention to our guide while hopping and slapping, and doing the mosquito dance in the mosquito infested grounds. We are swarmed by mouskeeters, subsequently bitten badly, and forced to depart the park, happily educated on the archeology of the park.
As we continue Westward, we progress further on the Inter-American highway, we arrive at Divisa, which is the town we make a turn southbound for the Azuero Peninsula, which is the cradle of Panamanian folklore. It is the area most famously known for the annual “carnival” festivities, and the birthplace of the Panamanian dress, the polerro, widely accepted as the most beautiful dress in the world. We pass the towns of Penonome, El Chitre, and Las Tablas, and are a bit surprised at the size of their urban populace.
Outside Las Tablas, we stop at an outdoor restaurant which is favored by locals, and we enjoy a very nice, inexpensive meal while dining in a very pleasant setting. Continuing southbound, we arrive at Pedasi, a beautifully maintained seaside village, with beautiful Spanish colonial dwellings along the roadway. It looks like it would be a nice place to explore, however we are eager to continue to Venal!!
The road from Las Tablas to Pedasi, although only a 2 lane road, is a wonderful stretch of new ashphalt with little traffic, and lends itself to a fast pace in the world’s fastest car—a rental!
Close to Playa Venal, our directions become a bit muddled, so we pull off a highly rutted dirt road with signs pointing to La Playita resort. Emus and chickens walk the grounds of this eco-like resort which is nestled on the shore of a protected bay with beautiful Pacific Coast scenery all about. We walk the grounds, and are always considering possible future vacations with the kids.
We get directions to Playa Venal and get back on the road for another 1.5 km. Rounding the corner for the Venal turnoff, we are instantly aware of the large swell in the half moon bay, beach break
In seconds, I shell off my travelling clothes, and am trunk-ated and rash guarded, and paddling out into the line up.
I am in the agua enjoying the power of the Pacific swell, with overhead set waves and peeling left and right. A long period swell of 18 seconds requires patience, although the payoff is mejor.
Rebecca lays on the beach reading, and at one point urns her back to the ocean for a more comfortable relaxation, and her belongings are soaked from an incoming wave with the approaching high tide. It is mostly all of her clothing and towels, however, our camera is also lost to the salt water drowning.
The surf sesh turns into a 3 hour pursuit of indulgence, and just prior to sunset, I exit the water happy and spent. As is true to many Central American surf trips, I meet two Florida surfers in the lineup, one being a former Atlantic side Zonian named James Brown, who is familiar with the Grimison family.
Back in the car, we drive straight through to Palmar, discovering a shortcut around each of the urban centers of Las Tablas and El Chitre. It is only a 4 hour drive back to the Hollands’ in Pal Mar, so in all I drove for 9 hours, to surf for 3. I am blessed with an adventurous travel partner and wife!
Throughout the drive I contemplate, who pays the machete man who clears the roadside grasses and vegetation?
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