Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Panama Surfing and Snorkeling
Panama March 31, 2010
We had a very restful evening since having switched rooms last night. In order for Richard and Diana to have 2 colocated rooms, we were moved to a cabana beneath the “ranchito” This room is right on the beach front facing the Achotines bay. In the morning, the forest floor appears to be moving outside the room due to the hermit crabs moving through the leaves. They’re everywhere. After another typical breakfast at the La Playita of frustrating customer service, we loaded up the maxi van with the Grimi family and ours to head back into Pedasi. We had a 9 o’clock appointment to take a boat ride to Isla Iguana. We were to meet our captain at Playa Arenal just outside Pedasi. We made our way to the beach, and we encountered a pretty standard Panamanian beachfront fishing operation with many pangas up and down the beach. A panga is an open boat with a big outboard motor, approximately 20 feet long. We were able to put one family per boat. We had some concerns about the high winds and the 3km transit to Isla Iguana. We were assured it would be no problema, and boarded up the boats.
The transit was kidney bustin’ rough, a true E ride at Disney, but the kids loved it. We arrived at the island after our 20 minute boat ride through the chop. We beached the boats, and headed through a sawgrass lined foot path to the other side of the island for snorkeling. The tide was pretty low, and we had to wait about an hour for the reef to fill in. While we waited, the kids created hermit crab communities, and had the time of their lives. Finally, the tide began to push over the reef, and we were able to snorkel in what resembled a tropical fish aquarium. It was pretty spectacular, and the many varieties and colors of fishes awed us all.
Our boat captains returned to bring us back to the beach, and we were happy to get underway again, since we had an appointment for surfing with Mr. Mid Tide at Venao.
It was the greatest afternoon of surfing this family has ever experienced together. A building Pacific swell pushing up to overhead, breaking in A frame peaks. All the kids had lots of waves, and my arms are noodle like as I type of the experience from hours of surf. At the end of the day, I was catching clean lefts as the sun set to the West and the barrel of the wave shot me into the setting sun.
I am beginning to think the Bohio at Venao is becoming my favorite place on Earth. Mucho Olas por todos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anther day at Venao
Panama March 30, 2010
We rose early this morning after an interesting night’s sleep. Did I say sleep? At bedtime, we were kept awake by the croaking clamor of the numerous geckos in and around our cabana. Once we fell asleep, the AC and ceiling fan cut out in the middle of the night, and we found ourselves in a sweltering tropical heat until we were able to get them up and running again. At 4 am, it was time for the roosters to begin their wake up reminders to all forced to listen. But we needed to wake up early since the surf was supposed to be good at first light.
Dylan and I packed up our surf gear, and met another guest, Maria to head over to Playa Venao hoping for some decent waves. When we got there it was clear that our tidal knowledge was a bit off as it was nearly dead low tide, and although we all paddled out in the warm, briny Pacific waters, the waves were somewhat closing out, and quite inconsistent, even though they were running about waist high. However, Dylan was able to score a few good ones.
Returning to La Playita, we sat down as a family and had breakfast to plan our daily activities.
After breakfast, our first stop was to be a visit to the Achotines Tuna Laboratory which was up the road from our accommodations, and at the end of the bay we shared with this facility. The lab was named for the Bay—Achotines, translation unknown.
We tried to reach the lab by phone to set up an appointment, but due to no cell service, we decided to just head over there, and see if we could get a tour. We got to the facility, and opened the gates heading down to the Bay. Luckily upon arrival they were able to let us tag along a previously reserved tour with 3 surfers from San Diego.
The facility was pretty interesting, showing us a video about its history, purpose, and the local area. This location was chosen due to the fact that the Azuero Peninsula sticks so far out into the Pacific, and has ready access to the deep waters frequented by the tuna. We learned about the tuna life cycle and viewed the ample tanks of tuna at feeding time.
Returning to our cabana, we prepared ourselves for an afternoon at the beach, and headed once again to Venao. Our patience was rewarded this time, since the tide and wind was favorable for some good surf. Dylan and I paddled right out, and caught some great waves. I was also able to spend a little time in surf instruction with Rachel, who thoroughly enjoyed the inside rollers, and was getting her footing and balance refined. At the latter part of the surf session, Dylan and Ryan were charging really hard, and catching some clean faces in the offshore conditions which were head high for them.
On the Venao beach is a large bohio with a bar and restaurant which we relaxed in. It is a typical Central American surf camp with a way laid back vibe. As I chilled out there with Rebecca and Rachel, watching the boys surf, I don’t think I could be any more relaxed. What a great afternoon.
When we returned to the Playita, we tried but were unsuccessful to line up horseback rides for our crew. Before long, Richard’s family followed by Trina’s family arrived after their five hour drive from the Canal Zone. All 9 of the cousins quickly fell in to exploration of our new home, spotting howler monkeys in the trees, and all of the animals which Lester, the owner has on staff. We told all the newly arrived ninos to avoid the monkey that had escaped his cage since it had bit Maria that morning, and she had to go to the hospital and receive a tetanus shot.
Their activity quickly turned to the beach where the hermit crabs provided an endless source of amusement, as they captured and built pens of sand for them
Meanwhile the adults planned our strategy for dinner, and decided to load up the maxi van for a trip into Pedasi. We were able to load all 3 families into our rental van, and the 15 of us headed into Pedasi on a darkened swerving rolling road on the Panamanian coast, as the full moon gloriously rose from behind a cloud.
We stopped at the first restaurant in Pedasi, appropriately named Isla Iguana. Although the Panama guide from Lonely Planet gave this place two stars, we were disappointed in the seafood, although all who ordered steak were happy.
It was an enjoyable evening of family talk, as the adults sat at one end, and the cousins sat at the other end of the table. Those kids are having a blast.
The day ended on a bit of a down note, after returning from Pedasi, I cut the turn to park too tightly and scraped our rental van against Richard’s. I am quite certain that the dual bill for the damage will be a tad painful. Oh well, at least no one in our group got bitten by a monkey……………..yet. Hasta manana.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
We have arrived in Playa Venao
March 29, 2010
We have arrived at the most marvelous resort on the Azuero Peninsula called La Playita Resort. It is located next to a great surfing beach called Playa Venao. It was quite a journey to arrive here, having left the Canal Zone at around 10 am. Rebecca and I quickly packed up, said goodbye to our Zonian and Cayuco friends, and hit the road.
On the way out of town, we had breakfast at Niko’s, which was formerly the Balboa bowling alley, which has since been turned into a cafeteria style eating establishment. Although the kids did not have fond memories of this place, it was so convenient, and this proved to be a much better experience. On the way out of town, we stopped at the Cuna cages, which is a souvenir stop that has many stalls owned by various souvenir sales people, and a significant number of Cuna Indians selling their wares. We picked up a few trinkets, and Rachel had her ankle adorned with a “weelie”, which is a long strand of beads which when wound upon a wrist or ankle has a beautiful design displayed.
We proceeded through the Canal Zone, passing Balboa, Diablo, Los Rios, Corozal, and Pariaso and finally making our way to the new bridge across the Panama Canal that leads to the road to the Interior. Rebecca pointed out many sights along the way which usually included some significant childhood memory, and I could not help imagining what a glorious childhood growing up in the Canal Zone must have been.
Our travels took us through some familiar territory as we made our way past the usual beach destination of Coronado. We stopped for provisions at El Rey de Coronado. Proceeding further into the Interior, we traversed the same roads that Rebecca and I had travelled in our October trip that leads to the Azuero Peninsula, known as the cultural center of Panama due to the age old celebrations of Carnival and the origin of the pollera dresses. It is a tipico Panamanian dress which is often thought of as the most beautiful dress in the world.
Since we knew the way (somewhat), we were able to make some shortcuts around the urban centers of Chitre and Las Tablas with some helpful instructions from the locals. The Peninsula is quite an agrarian location, and the roads were lined with fields of crops and livestock. It appeared to be sugar cane harvesting season, and there were many trucks with loads of sugar cane making their way to the processing plant. Both Rebecca and I had had the experience of sucking on sugar cane as children, so we found a likely piece on the side of the road to allow our kids the opportunity. Rachel and Ryan loved it, and Dylan decided he was not going to taste a stalk which had been retrieved from the side of the road. Smart one, that Dylan. We also took advantage of the watermelon harvest, purchasing 3 for $1, and a pina for a dollar.
I hurried us along to our destination through the beautiful seaside village of Pedasi, and onto Venao. My intention was to get a surf session in before sunset.
Our excitement grew as we neared Venao, and discussed all the fun activities we were going to participate in. When we took the final dirt road into La Playita Resort, we were immediately greeted by the two emus which lived on the property. Within minutes, the kids had also spotted the local peacocks, scarlet macaws, caged monkeys, and chickens. I quickly got Dylan dressed for a surf session, and hustled over to Playa Venao. We just had only the time for a quick session in the pristine Pacific waters as the sun was setting to the West, on our left over the rolling foothills of the Venao. We scored some waist high (mostly close out) rolling Pacific ground swell, but basked in the warm, briny waters while watching a beautiful sunset. Dylan caught a great right, and enjoyed the best wave he has ever ridden since receiving his new board for Christmas. I cannot imagine a more perfect moment in fatherhood.
As I walked out of the waters of this fine location, I couldn’t imagine being any happier than this day I had been experiencing with my wonderful family .
As we returned to the Resort, Ryan and Rachel had already made some friends with the other guests, and were conducting hermit crab races with them. While we were gone, they took a lot of pictures, caught a lot of hermit crabs, and did a lot of swinging on the swings on the community Bohio that also houses a row of hammocks to enjoy.
We met the owner of the resort, Lester, and enjoyed his conversation and hospitality. He told us about fishing and diving the local waters, Isla Iguana, and other tours this friendly area of Panama has to offer. One of the most beautiful aspects of this resort, is NO TV, WiFi, or telephone service. It is a nature retreat, cut out of the coastal rainforest, yet still preserving its natural beauty.
After dinner, we just lounged in the hammocks, and enjoyed one another’s company, and I reflected on what a near perfect day this had turned out to be. Smiles all around.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
The Cayuco Race
Panama March 26-28, 2010
The cayuco race is over!! The crew of MOAB finished respectably, even under duress.
Friday was the start of the cayuco race, beginning in the town of Colon on the Atlantic side of Panama. We assembled the crews of NIC and MOAB mid-morning in Ft. Clayton to trailer the boats, and transport the paddlers to the ‘Lantic side. Our route was over the new highway to Colon, complete with a checkpoint for documents from the Policia Nacional. Many Cayucos were on the road in transit to the container terminal where the race was to begin.
Arriving at the container terminal, we attempted to find a location which would provide shelter from the sun on a hot, dusty dry season day. For the next 3 days we constantly battled hydration and sun overexposure issues as the race progressed.
Surprisingly, the organization and administration of this year’s race was a bit more organized than last year, and we were actually in the water and the race began ontime.
Our crew still had some reservations about our stability in rough water, and as the afternoon progressed, the brisk sea breeze was picking up. This would give us a direct side chop through the first section of the race.
This course starts in a channel that must hook a turn out into the Atlantic side anchorage within the Colon breakwater. Essentially, the boats proceed North for about ¼ mile, and do a U turn around a pier, dumping the boats into the breakwater for a few miles than joining the Canal as it proceeds to Gatun locks, the first set of locks on the Atlantic side of the Panama Canal.
Our boat readied for the start with approximately 50 other crews in the open category. We lined up between two buoys, and the race started on time at 2:40 sharp.
As we did last year, we had a phenomenal start, although somewhat hectic with white wash kicking up in the deep blue Atlantic waters. Our boat started in the first third to the left, and were out in the front pack rounding the pier as we hugged a ship tied fast to the pier.
We continued to gain momentum out into the breakwater as the side rollers began their unfortunate assault on the MOAB, and her formidably sized crew. Although we were making a great pace, and slicing the water in true cayuco fashion, the waves won the day, and we swamped.
Our immediate bailing began, and we were able to get back into the boat, this time at the back of the pack. We instantly realized that we needed to be super cognizant of the wave action on this very sensitive cayuco.
Taking it cautiously, but with strong strokes, our steerage began to veer off, and our helmsman, Richard reported to us that our rudder was broken. He could steer left, but not right. This did not bode well for our progress through this first stretch of the race. However, through sheer will and determination, we finished the first leg toward the back of the pack, as our families cheered us on to the finish at Gatun locks. What an unlucky run, especially with the broken rudder, and realization of our inherent instability. I was able to spend a few moments with Rebecca, the kids, Aunt Janice, and Kathryn and Sophia before we were compelled to load Cayucos onto the trailers, and head to the Melia Hotel.
Rebecca had a wonderful day taking a boat ride from Portabello to a small island for snorkeling. At the time of the race finish, it was clear the family had also experienced a long, sunny day.
The Hotel Melia is a nice hotel in Gatun which was formerly the military academy which Manuel Noreiga attended. We quickly showered, and got to the Gatun yacht club for the spaghetti dinner held by the crews. Scott grew up a short way from Gatun yacht club, and this was a memorable event for him as he reminisced some childhood memories anticipating the destruction of the club for the Canal expansion.
It was to bed early for a 4 am wakeup.
Saturday March 27, 2020
Race Day 2. Moab crew shows up in the predawn hours to assemble at the boat for today’s race, shaking off the misadventure of yesterday.
The rudder was fixed by the boat’s owners on the eve prior as Rebecca had a few words referencing rental protocol in a fashion of efficiency she is world famous for.
There is no denial that today’s race course will once again be unfortunately choppy. Again, we press on in true cayuco determination. The start is held a bit less efficiently than yesterday, and each moment of delay creates more wind and the resulting chop.
Our first section goes from the Gatun Yacht Club to Tiger Island which is the start of the Banana Channel. Our start is again strong, and we make our way in the direction of the Banana channel over the Gatun anchorage across rolling chop.
Again, that rolling chop leads to our demise, and our boat swamps. Once, twice, three times, each time results in a lengthy bailing session which in itself is very fatiguing. All the while, we lose ground to the other paddlers. On our last swamp, the bow is buried so deep that the gunwales cannot be elevated above the water level to bail. Richard suggests we pull the plug on the race, and hails a support boat from the ACP for our assistance.
About this time, it is clear Guille has been injured in the last rollover, and could’ve possibly broken a rib. Aboard the support boat, we decide to get Guille medical attention, and since the usual rescue boat is not available, we ask to be towed to the closest island for bailing out our vessel. Guille is taken by a personal boat to Gamboa to go to seek medical attention.
After we bail out the boat, we realize we will probably be spending a lengthy amount of time on the island waiting to be rescued. However, we make the decision to continue the race.
Unbelievably, with three paddlers, our weight is just right to provide the stability we need to proceed. This is most fortunate since the rest of the race is very choppy resulting from the strong winds of the day. We dig strong, and not counting the 50 minutes of swamping, towing, and rescue, we finally pull into Gamboa with about 3:30 of paddling time, not too shabby for 3 paddlers on this rough day.
All of the kids and cousins are out on the Tin Kitty, and cheer us on for a middle portion of the race. At this point, Rachel is quick to notice that we are second to last, however, we do gain on and pass some other crews. It is mostly crews who have experienced similar problems in the chop.
I am feeling pretty frustrated with this year’s cayuco experience as we arrive in Gamboa a long time after most of today’s boats.
I gladly return to the PVQ with Rebecca for a short nap. ThePVQ owner has arranged a BBQ cookout at 4, and we go to the Shorty and Slim concert at the Balboa yacht Club. A true gathering of Zonians.
It is around this point that I realize that MOAB will not carry the weight of 4 big guys, and opt to sit the rest of the race out. Guille has a bruised rib, but is is luckily not cracked or broken. A true blessing after 2 frustrating days with adverse weather, broken rudder, and an overweight vessel.
Sunday March 28, 2010
I decided last night with Reb’s guidance to not throw in the towel, and meet the crew to go back to Gamboa for day 3 of the race.
Guille has a rib brace, and has decided to try out the first sprint to see if he will be able to transit the portion of the race called the “Cut”.
We paddle Northbound up several buoys for the first leg which is a sprint. We are blessed with flat calm, and our boat is off like a shot, having a great start. However, about halfway through the sprint, it is clear that Guille is having difficulty with breathing due to the rib brace he must wear. He makes a strong finish, but can’t go on.
We realize that we can make the next 1:30-1:40 with three of our crew. We do, and it is STRONG!!!
A 1:25 “Cut”
Lunch after the “goat rope” boat ramp was with Ted, some yummy fried rice.
Transit to the South side of Miraflores locks and wait in the field for a couple hours before the last sprint. We make the sprint and happily go to the Tibblier shed in Diablo for a fun Zonian party. Phew, what a 3 day event.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Paddle and Surf Day
March 25, 2010
We had the distinct privilege of being awakened this morning by Rachel at 5 a.m. Since she is not allowed to wake us up at home before 6a.m., she did the time zone conversion, and decided that 5 was the right time.
Rebecca and I left her in our bed, and ran up Ancon Hill. It was a pleasant run spotting niccis on every turn as the road spiraled up to the top. At every new clearing around the hill, a spectacular vista was to be seen including the Causeway, the port of Balboa, Canal, Old Panama, and downtown Panama. Breathless at the top.
After the run, I quickly jumped into Scott’s car to get our last day of paddling in prior to the race tomorrow. We still have some issues to work out, like keeping the boat upright. We worked a lot of the bugs out as a crew, the boat is handling a lot better, and we are paddling well despite some rolls in the water today, tomorrow should be fine. The winds are forecast to be only 5-10 knots, which will help on our first stretch.
Even though we only had a short paddle, the transit to Gamboa, returning the trailered boats to Fort Clayton, and doing our final race preparation errands seemed to take most of the day.
Meanwhile, Rebecca, and Diana took the kids on a tour of old Panama, the church of the Golden Altar, Casca Viejo, and Las Bovedas. Some pretty interesting Panama history, including the site where Henr y Morgan tried to ransack Panama, and the ancient Spanish tunnels where gold was hidden, and prisoners were tortured. All of this after navigating a 16 passenger maxi van through downtown Panama City with driving directions that do not include street signs, but navigation by landmark. It’s a Central American thing.
We all arrived back at the PVQ at a similar mid afternoon time, and since we were well aware that a nice Southern swell was hitting Panama, we loaded up the van to hit the beach. We got our friend Andy, and Richard and I brought Dylan, Carly, Tommy, and Ryan up to the beach named Tits. Yes, it is really called Playa Teta. It is the Zonian home break, and only an hour from our lodging. We left at 4 to hit the incoming tide. We took the new bridge over the canal at Paraiso since the Puente de las Americas had the afternoon traffic flu.
After getting to Playa Teta, we park at the top of the hill, and carry surfboards and gear down the steep dirt path to the beach. The view at sand level is pristine, and there was an ample swell breaking over “Tetas Front”, “Punta Tetas”, and Breshnevs. Dylan paddled right out to the point with Richard and Tommy as I supervised for a while on the beach. Carly and Ryan explored a tidal pool formed in the sand which was teeming with marine life including cangrejo, and many fishes. What a childhood playground. We caught some waves at the point, as Andy scored some long rights at Breshnev’s. Our session lasted until the light ran out, post sunset. We all agreed it was a glorious, relaxing session. A wonderful change for the Floridians to be surfing in wonderful 81 degree water after a chilly winter.
On the ride back to Ancon Hill, all of the pilots on board entertained one another with stories of our profession. One airline pilot, one Panama Canal pilot, and one Port Canaveral pilot. We had a late dinner at TGIFriday’s on the causeway, relating more stories steeped in professional heroism. Certainly a full day was experienced by the Pletch crew in Panama, and bedtime never felt so good, in preparation for the start of tomorrow’s race.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Prepare to Paddle: Panama
Panama March 24, 2010
Another early start to the day, as the birds in the jungle trees outside our window began their loud chirping at 4 am. A very comforting sound to Rebecca, reminding her of her childhood. I was equally comforted last night at bedtime as we heard the ship’s horn of a vessel transiting the Panama Canal, reminding me of my tenure on Long Island Sound years ago.
Another of Rebecca’s favorite activities was to be up running before dawn, and she ran to La Boca and back, the second half of her run being a severe uphill ascent up Ancon Hill to the PVQ.
Our paddle crew once again set out for Gamboa boat ramp to paddle with our full complement. Our acclamation is still progressing as we worked out the difficulties of balance and equipment on the MOAB (mother of all boats). Luckily, we had today to practice as the boat and crew needed a bit of tweaking prior to the commencement of Friday’s race. We did not fare so well with the aft quartering swells produced by some of the Canal’s transiting ships or the pilot launches which created large rollers in the size range of 4 feet. We swamped several times to the dismay of all involved. However, we put our minds together to determine the suspected CG problem, and are adjusting accordingly.
The kids were once again in vacation paradise with their close cousins, and spent a lot of time in the PVQ pool, and seeking out the activities Rebecca provided.
Once I returned from the paddle, we participated in a family tradition of renting bikes and heading out the Amador causeway. Our destination was the Smithsonian marine exhibit, however, we arrived too late to make a meaningful visit, and plan to visit again tomorrow. However, a highlight of the excursion was to observe a sloth slumbering in a crook of the tree at the road to Smithsonian entrance. We also felt compelled to have a snack at Mi Ranchito, another family favorite.
Upon returning to the PVQ, we loaded up the maxi van and headed to Napoli pizzeria for a gathering of the Zonians.
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Our first day of a Panama vacation
Panama: March 23, 2010
We made it to Panama today!!! The kids were up before the alarm which was set for 3:20 am, and very excited for our planned Central American vacation. We had the mini van loaded up in no time, and out the door early. What a great feeling to be stress free on the way to a family vacation.
All progressed smoothly at the MCO airport as I dropped off the family, and proceeded to employee parking. By the time I took the shuttle back to the airport, Rachel was calling me on my cell phone since they had checked all our bags, surfboards, and received boarding passes. We breezed through the employee security line, and waited at the gate, with plenty of time to spare.
Just before boarding, Richard and Diana arrived with their family, so 7 cousins all prepared to fly to Panama. Upon boarding, there was much seat shuffling as the cousins sat with their favorites. There was ample room in the back of the plane.
Our flight was a pretty painless 3 hours, as I slept, listened to tunes, and read. Before I knew it, we were touching down at Tocumen. All of the kids were very happy to arrive at our destination.
Budget did not have the 8 passenger mini van we had confirmed, so we ended up with a 16 passenger diesel monster van. A great alternative, since we loaded up mucho baggage with a lot of extra space, and the surfboards actually fit inside.
We figured our way through the city, and navigated to Corredor Norte, which led us to Albrook Mall. There, we got a pay as you go cell phone, and ate at the food court. Rebecca procured some of her favorite vanilla from the farmacia in the mall as we enjoyed our mall food.
Next we proceeded up Ancon Hill in the Old Canal Zone, and arrived at the Panama Vacation Quarters. It is an old U.S. Canal Zone quarters which has been converted to luxury vacation quarters. The kids immediately began to spot the local fauna of the rainforest canopy including niccis, hummingbirds, and tamarins. They were in the pool in no time!!
I quickly donned my cayuco gear, and loaded up with the two crews of NIC an MOAB. We stopped in Fort Clayton and got the boats, and made a direct passage to the Gamboa boat ramps. There we experienced a flurry of cayuco practice activity and many boats crewed by friends of ours.
Our practice lasted for a little over an hour. We took a route I had never travelled. Due to the strong dry season North winds, we paddled up the Chagras River, an ecological tour in itself. It was a grand day of warm weather, sunny skies, and pristine, emerald green clear waters. As we made our turn back to Gamboa, the wind and current was at our backs, so a quick passage ensued.
For dinner, we loaded up the van, and headed out the Causeway to a favorite of Rebecca’s called Penkos. As all the kids were exhausted, it was an enjoyable, quick meal so we could return to the PVQ for bedtime. Paddle practice tomorrow at 0800. Good night.
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Dad and Ryan at the State Pow Wow
This year's Indian Guides state Pow Wow was held at the world's largest Dude Ranch. It was at the Westgate Ranch in Lake Wales. We enjoyed some great tribal camaraderie including fun activities such as airboat rides, horseback rides, skeet shooting, bike rides, and a rodeo on Saturday night. It was a blast, and the best Pow Wow ever.
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