Monday, May 7, 2012

Popoyo Day 2


Popoyo May 6, 2012

Today was boat day at Popoyo.  A typical surf boot camp day.  We were up at 5 for a quick breakfast of fresh fruit and PB&J’s and black Latin coffee.  Energized for the morning at least.  It was still dark when we headed out into the Landcruiser on the way to Aesteirillo.  The panga waited for us, and we loaded the boards cooler, backpacks, water jugs and our surf vibe to head to Lance’s Left.  We could see the indicator wave spitting plumage from the offshores, and we eagerly made our way across the small bay area to Lances.

It was head high again to a bit overhead, and we scored a lot of waves.  Dave C and Mike D were super charged up since the wave was such a long left.  Wave after wave headed into our zone to be consumed by charging.  Unfortunately, before long quite a crowd had developed.  After about 3 ½ hours at Lances, and many waves, we headed to a new spot a little North up the beach, called Playgrounds.

It was uncrowed at first, and the wave was a fun little A frame that would reform on the inside and jack up for some wally action.  We caught many more waves, and Dave C and Eddie E were killing it all day.  I surfed here for another 2 plus 45, before it was time to take a break on the boat, rehydrate, have a sandwich and some Oreos, and enjoy a little nap.

As I awoke from the nap, Eddie E, Dave R and Dave C had been scoring wave after wave.  Not willing to be outdone for time in the water, I borrowed Freddie’s board and paddled in.  I caught some sweet lefts, on a wave that had taken on a whole new personality.  What had been an earlier A frame, had evolved into a steep wall of incoming tide waves which were manageable for a shoulder take off, and jacked up as the wave progressed towards the beach.  The incoming tide also created a monster back wash, and when combined with the cross shore wind, the conditions were interesting.

A grand total of 7 hours in the water today, and 10 total on the boat.  We were in the water at 0630 this morning, and out at 1630, when it was time to pull our gear off the panga, and load up the Cruiser to head back to the Popoyo Surf Lodge.  I managed to facetime the family tonight, and it went well until the ipad on that end was dropped, and a crack was observed. 

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