Popoyo May 8, 2012
Position, paddling, timing conditioning
First light at Popoyo wally and vert walls
Manpered
Congrejo magic
Here’s the scene, just had tipico Nica noche meal buffet for
dinner. So satisfying and yummy. All the surf crews are sitting around the
cocina chillin to some Bob Marley, and watching surf videos. Mostly we are rehashing the sweet day of
surf. So we are totaling about 19.5
hours on the Drazich meter for total hours of surf. 3 sessions today, descriptions to follow.
An interesting fact, is that for every hour of surf, 50% of
the time is spent paddling, and only 3% is spent surfing. So for every hour of
surf, only 3 minutes is spent actually riding your board. Fun, huh?
We got an earlier start than usual today, as we wanted to be
in the water before the crowd scene at Popoyo got unmanageable, and before the
onshore winds started.
We were fed, loaded, and in the water at 6 am. Popoyo was walling up and driving some fast
vert lines to the beach. A shoulder was
the best ride, and some pretty good surfers were in the water and scoring some
sweet rides. We surfed for about 3
hours, when a much deserved break was required.
We returned to the lodge for a real breakfast, not
continental. Following the lodge motto
of “surf them til they drop”, we only enjoyed an hour of down time, before we
loaded up and headed to Popoyo again. We
got there just in time for a thunder storm, but we waited, undaunted, and
patiently for the storm to clear. It was
fun hanging with our crew under the bohio overlooking the surf spot, and just
smokin’ and jokin’. After a while, the
tide started to creep back in, and the set size began to grow.
So, if the magic congrejo said to me then, “You have one
wish for the waves this afternoon, quick, what would it be?” OK, let me see, an uncrowded Popoyo break,
with head high A-frames, glassy conditions, surfing with my bros. Well, you can guess what happened…………….
As the storm blew through, we got a post rain clean up, an
oil slick glassy ocean surface, a scared away crowd, and wave after wave of
break to beach lefts tipping the meter at the slightly overhead size. Wow,
how much more could you ask for.
After some sweet hours of that, we again retreated to the
lodge, for the ever delicioso quesoburgresas!!!
Chris, our guide would not allow us to sit still for the
afternoon, so he rallied us again to head through the town of Limon to the
beach break Santannas.
Located at the point of a small bay, the swell hits the
beach break directo, and there are 3 peaks of sometimes closing out
screamers. I sat this session out, as I
was already working on rehabbing the shoulders after 6 hours of surf today, in
anticipation for tomorrow.
Having headed out before dawn, and arriving back at our
lodge after sunset, there was no better cure than the Nica buffet. It was
awesome, we are tired, out bellies full, and happiness abounds.
In Eddie’s afternoon computer session as he lifted his
laptop, he found a freshly squeezed 3
inch scorpion who had climbed up there .
We have decided that a group of golfers would be expected to
be pampered to, caddies and all. We are
just happy to be bouncing along a bumpy 3rd world road in a
Landcruiser in search of surf. True,
Chris loads our boards, and tells us where to surf, with local knowledge of
tides, swell, and winds, making it a mindless pursuit for us. Therefore, we have coined the term “manpered” Pampering for men!!
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