Bocas Paradise

Another great adventure day in Bocas del Toro, Panama!!  We split the surf groups this morning, and we "got on it" a bit after dawn patrol.  George had hooked up with a friend from Florida, so he took Eddie and their 2 kids surfing at Playa Largo, which was reportedly "maccin!"  The other half, which included Dylan and I, as well as Michael and Jeff took the Choy taxi service (water taxi) to a beach break on Bastiementos, named Wizards.

Wizards turned out to be a good compromise of wave size, accessibility, and ability level.  The Caribbean swell had definitely grown today, and our transit to Wizards took us over some big rolling sets.  At the break, there was a definite center section which was walling up overhead, and pounding on the inside.  At the North point, however, there was a fairly predictable left that was fast, fun and very makeable.  We scored about a 1.5 on the Drazich meter, and it was fun to surf a deserted lineup with only the 4 of us, allowing some quality father and son time.

Back at Tierra Verde, we quickly changed from surf mode to snorkeling mode, and Choy again took all the families, except dads, myself excluded, to a snorkeling spot on the West side of Bastiementos.  Yesterday was spectacular, but today was more so.  Christene commented immediately upon entering the water, "this place looks like Mars, I have never seen this type of stuff before"  She proved to be so correct.  In the clear water were coral heads which were radiating color, texture, and shapes of all sorts.  The sponges were prong horned shaped colors of deep purple, bright orange and  lavender blue.  The anemones were a blinding orange, resembling Venus fly traps, as well as flowering and spinning flora extending from a tube.  When the tube anemaones were approached they would quickly retract into the tube.  Giving all of the surfaces a fuzzy look, were a seeming infestation of spiny starfish.  They covered everything, and gave a spiny, catepillar type furry texture to much of the underwater landscape.  The starfish were purple and yellow. It was a veritable, visual feast of dazzling extrordinaire. 

Although we were the first boat at this dive spot, within a short time about 8 boats had appeared.  Even though the reef never got crowded, it kind of killed that feeling of "I just discovered this place" which must be an innate quality in adventure seeking families.

Next, we got on the boat and wove through the mangrove islands, reminded of our Thousand Islands in Cocoa Beach.  However, at one island we stopped, and were able to spot no less than 5 three toed sloths in a short order. Toto, I don't think were in Cocoa Beach anymore.

Continuing up the coast of Bastiementos, we arrived at the public marina, and hiked across a narrow part of the island to Red Frog beach.  Again, we saw sloths in the trees, and on a branch overhanging the road, was a mother sloth, and her young baby clinging to her belly.

Red Frog beach is a resort beach, and some of our group took a short swim as we rested on the beach, and I was thankful to NOT be at a resort, and instead,  out experiencing the REAL Panama.  We did spot a tiny red tree frog, which made the hike to the other side of the island worthwhile.

Back on the boat,  it was time for lunch.  We headed up to the Bastiementos town, and ordered at Roots.  The girls ventured up the mountain to an organic, earthy, spa type cocoa factory thingy.  They barely made it back in time for the meal.

While the guys were waiting at the restaurant, Choy disappeared, and came back with a bag of freshly baked bread.  I was like, "where did you get that?"  He explained how to walk up the hill between two houses, veer to the right, and look for a house with smoke coming out of the chimmney, go behind it and you will find the bakery.  I said, "will it say panderia?"  He kind of chuckled, and we set off, not knowing what the humor was about.  Well, when we got to the house he had explained, and followed the smoke tendril to the back, what a surprise we had.  There were two women kneading dough on tables, and cooking on makeshift  dutch ovens. I need to explain this to help appreciate how rudimentary the bread ovens were, but how delicious the bread was.  There were 3 "ovens" operating when we showed up.  The "ovens" were large heavy duty metal vats, like industrial size cafeteria cookers.  On top of the "ovens"  was a corrugated tin square with smoldering coals on it, as well as half coconut husks.  Each of these ovens rested on a 55 gallon drum, which was also filled with wood coals.  That bread cooked in these ovens without a thermostat, thermometer, or any other modern convenience which we take for granted.  We also found out that they use coconut water to make this bread.  It is quite possibly the best bread I have ever eaten, and the round shaped coconut bread which came out of those ovens hot and steamy was better than most cake I have experienced.  To make it even better, the bread cooks were jovial, and inviting, and they actually seemed to like our curiosity.  They exemplefied the Caribbean hospitality that the Panamanians in this part of Panama are all about.  A REAL Panama experience, contributing to my feeling that this may be my favorite region in this country.   

In the afternoon/evening, I took Ryan to Carenera point, and we surfed the uncrowded inside section.  It was waist high, and pretty mellow.  However, Ryan had a wonderful time, and his wave count was awesome.  He had one of those smiles on that looked like his cheeks would crack from pure enjoyment.  That's the type of time a dad will always remember with his 12 year old son, and I had as much fun watching him surf as he had doing the actual surfing.  A spelendid time: just before sunset, surfing in Panama father and son.  It just doesn't get any better than that, sports fans.