Day 1 on the C&O Canal

 I’m writing this from a front porch glider at Bill’s Place in Little Orleans, the kind of spot that feels like it hasn’t changed in decades—and thankfully so. It’s the perfect place to exhale after our first day on the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, legs pleasantly tired and a cheeseburger-and-fries kind of satisfied.

The morning started with a bite in the air, the kind that has you second-guessing your layering strategy. But as the miles ticked by, the sun did its job and one by one, the extra layers disappeared into jersey pockets. What we were left with was just about perfect riding weather and a ribbon of trail that delivered all day long.

The highlight—no question—was rolling through the Paw Paw Tunnel. At nearly three-fifths of a mile, it’s long enough to feel like you’ve entered another world. The darkness swallows you up, the temperature drops, and the sound of your tires echoes off the damp brick walls. Then, just as you settle into the rhythm of it, you see the light ahead—and bursting out the other side feels nothing short of spectacular.

We also had plenty to look at beyond the trail itself. Wildlife was out in force—mostly painted turtles sunning themselves on logs in the canal, completely unconcerned with our passing. We spotted a couple of wild turkeys, plenty of Canada gooses, and ducks along the way. Add in trees just starting to pop with spring blooms, and the whole ride had that fresh, early-season feel that’s hard to beat.

The riding itself? About as good as it gets. Long stretches of smooth, “champagne” gravel made for effortless cruising, the kind of surface that lets you forget about the bike and just enjoy the ride. No real suffering to speak of today—just a steady, rewarding 44 miles in the books.

Rolling into Bill’s Place was the ideal finish. Simple, classic, and exactly what you want after a day like this. Cheeseburgers, fries, and that deep, earned contentment that only comes from hours in the saddle.

What made the day even better, though, was the nostalgia. This stretch of the canal isn’t new to me. As a kid growing up around here, I spent plenty of time along the C&O—canoe trips, Boy Scout outings, family hikes. Riding it now feels like flipping through an old photo album, except this time I’m doing it on two wheels.

Tonight’s lodging is at the Town Hill Bed and Breakfast, and JP and I took care of the shuttle logistics like responsible adults. Johnny Mac, on the other hand, has different plans. Apparently, 44 miles of smooth gravel wasn’t quite enough. He’s opted to tack on an extra nine miles—straight up—with about 1,600 feet of elevation gain.

Every group ride has one. Johnny Mac just volunteered.

Met some other bikers at our Bed and Breakfast that had a car, and we got a ride to Berkeley Springs WV.  Proof restaurant was very nice.