Just made it over the Atlantic as I write this on the iPad. Still about 2 more hours of flying to get to the destination: Catania, Sicily.
Long but typical day of non rev travel, with the usual stresses. Of course, the day before, the loads all filled up both on jet Blue and Delta to get us to New York’s JFK airport. So, we had to do a shift, and that was to buy Rebecca a ticket on jet Blue to Kennedy.
I finished up a 3 day trip with one leg from BHM to MCO. It all went as scheduled, and we even got in earlier than our 1000 arrival. That was necessary as the flight I had planned on nonrev/jumpseating was at 1105, just on the other side of the terminal at the Delta gates. I also knew that the jumpseat on the A321 was booked by a Delta pilot.
I got off my plane with a great FO who agreed to shut it down, and let me go early, and I did a quick bag change out in the pilot lounge, and literally scurried over to the Delta gates.
Somewhat relieved, I checked in with the ops agent at that Delta flight, gave her a goody bag, and found out that there were in fact 2 jump seats on this aircraft. Things were looking pretty good at this point
It was really interesting when the other jumpseat Delta guy was Skip McPhail, an old colleague from the Express days whom I hadn’t seen in years. We did a lot of catching up on the jumpseat about all the Surf Dogs and our old Express friends. Made for a great flight up to Kennedy airport.
Upon landing, went to find Rebecca who had flown up on Jet Blue, it was a good thing, since she was not going to get onto the Delta flight that I was on.
Within a short time,Marti arrived, having flown in from Dallas.
Making our “goody bag introduction” to the ops agent, we were rewarded with Comfort class seats on that flight, lucky especially since it is a 9 hour flight.
I don’t sleep too well on this flight, but watched 3 episodes of Land Man, makes me want to get streaming Peacock and binge that series. It is just too good.
And listened to a sweet Goose concert from the Capitol Theatre. They are jamming out. Really makes me want to get to some live jam band shows this fall. Hoping to see Phish in Richmond prior to the Navy River House weekend.
I must admit that sometimes I am uncertain if I should have left Delta, but when I am in a tight jumpseat situation, the reality of the wisdom of my decision becomes strikingly clear.
And also, these guys that commute out of Florida to fly long haul across the Atlantic have a brutal sleep deprived existence. I am sure that I would not handle that so great.
The flight across the Atlantic was 9 hours, customs /immigration into Italy was a breeze. Mostly automated stuff with passport image and photo.
John picked us up in his Range Rover, and we drove to their cute little gated seaside village right on the Mediterranean. The view from the master bedroom 2nd floor was stunning. The volcano, Mt. Aetna was off in the distance, but obscured. We did hear some rumblings though, evidence of the recent eruption which spewed abundant ash.
Chatted for awhile, but I really needed to nap, and did so, as did my fellow travelers, Rebeca amd Marti
Monica got home at 2 addding her usual dose of energetic enthusiasm.
Spent time in their pool then walked down the rocky shoreline into the warm Med.
John prepared a delicious pasta dish with olive oil veggies and clams.
Bed time came early.
Day 2
Agrigento & The Valley of the Temples: Ancient Sicily in the Heat
We left the Baia del Silenzio neighborhood early this morning, saying goodbye to John and Monica’s beautiful home as we headed out for a full day of exploring Sicily.
I woke up in John and Monica’s master bedroom just as the first light began to appear. Outside the window was an incredible view over the Mediterranean. The water was remarkably calm, with boats quietly making their way along the coast, carrying on the same centuries-old tradition of trade and travel. A light breeze moved through the morning air, while a layer of fog softened the sunrise.
It was one of those moments that felt almost meditative — the kind of peaceful beginning to a day that makes you stop and appreciate exactly where you are.
Fortunately, the day was hot but overcast, which kept things somewhat manageable. We were going to need every bit of that cloud cover.
Destination: Agrigento
Our destination for the morning was Agrigento and its famous Valley of the Temples, the ancient Greek ruins of Akragas.
John once again became our gracious driver as we headed inland. The drive took a little over an hour, crossing a landscape that gradually became increasingly arid and brown. The scenery was a reminder that Sicily isn’t just turquoise Mediterranean water and picturesque villages — much of the interior has a rugged, dry character of its own.
Then we arrived at one of Sicily’s great archaeological treasures.
The ancient city of Akragas was one of the most important Greek cities in Sicily, and its remains stretch dramatically across the landscape. Even today, the ruins sit beneath the shadow of the modern city, creating a remarkable contrast between ancient civilization and modern life.
The Valley of the Temples
We started our hike through the Valley of the Temples, and despite the clouds, it was still hot — and sweaty.
Along the way, we saw ancient burial tombs incorporated into the city walls. These weren’t simply decorative monuments; they were built into the fortifications, forming part of the defensive system of the city and its protection from the sea.
And then came the Temple of Concordia.
Standing in front of it is one of those experiences where photographs simply don’t do the place justice. The temple has survived remarkably well, its massive columns still standing after more than two thousand years. It’s hard not to wonder about the people who built it, worshipped there and walked these same paths so many centuries ago.
We even encountered one of Sicily’s distinctive Girgentana goats, with its wonderfully unusual spiral horns — another reminder that even among ancient temples, Sicily manages to provide something unexpected.
A Very Sicilian Lunch
After working up an appetite, we stopped at a wonderful little roadside restaurant.
This turned out to be one of those unplanned travel discoveries that makes a day memorable. Fresh pasta, meats and appetizers filled the table, and then came the cannoli.
The food was fantastic — simple, fresh and unmistakably Sicilian. Sometimes the best meals on a trip aren’t the ones you’ve researched ahead of time. They’re the little places you happen to find along the road.
From Ancient Greece to Modern Art
After lunch, we continued toward our next stop: a mosaic exhibition.
The transition was fascinating. We had just spent the morning walking among temples built by the ancient Greeks, and now we were moving toward another chapter of Sicily’s artistic history.
Along the way, we encountered the work of Fernando Botero, whose distinctive sculptures provided another striking contrast against the ancient surroundings and modern cityscape.
It was a fitting way to continue the day: ancient architecture, archaeological treasures, incredible food and modern art — all layered together in one corner of Sicily.
Villa Romana del Casale: A Roman Villa Frozen in
Time
One of the surprises of our Sicily trip was discovering just how much of ancient Roman life is still
sitting beneath our feet. At Villa Romana del Casale, near Piazza Armerina, we got a remarkable
look at what life was like for Sicily’s wealthy Roman elite nearly 1,700 years ago.
Built in the early 4th century AD, the villa was far more than a country house. It was a sprawling
estate with more than 60 rooms, elaborate baths, dining areas and courtyards. But what really makes
the place extraordinary is what covers the floors: thousands of square meters of incredibly detailed
mosaics.
And these aren't just decorative patterns. The mosaics tell stories.
There are scenes of hunting expeditions, exotic animals being captured and transported from Africa,
mythology, banquets, servants and everyday Roman life. One of the most famous is the scene often
called the “Bikini Girls,” showing young women participating in athletic activities. Seeing them
dressed in what looks remarkably like modern athletic wear is a pretty entertaining reminder that
some things really haven't changed much in 1,700 years.
The villa was eventually buried by mud and debris, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise.
Being covered for centuries helped protect the mosaics from the elements and preserved an
astonishing amount of detail.
Walking through the villa today is almost like walking across a giant Roman storyboard. Every room
seems to reveal another piece of the story—wealth, entertainment, travel, hunting and daily life in the
Roman world.
Villa Romana del Casale became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, and it's easy to
understand why. The buildings are impressive, but the mosaics are the real stars.
It's one of those places where history stops feeling like something you read about in a book. You
literally walk across it
Back to the Mediterranean
After a wonderful day of side trips and excursions through glorious Sicily, we were more than happy to head back home. By the time we returned, the swimming pool was calling our names.
A quick dip in the Mediterranean was just what we needed to cool off and refresh ourselves after the heat and walking of the day. There is something pretty special about being able to finish a day of exploring ancient Greek ruins by jumping into the warm Mediterranean.
The evening ended around the dinner table after a lovely meal prepared by John and Monica. With good food, wine and plenty of laughter, we spent the evening rehashing the day’s adventures and listening to stories about their youth growing up in the Canal Zone of Panama.
It was the perfect ending to another memorable Sicilian day — ancient Greek temples, great food, art, the Mediterranean and, most importantly, good friends to share it all with.
Another Perfect Day on the Sicilian Coast
We had another wonderful day on the water today. I had planned to cook breakfast for everyone this morning, but apparently my alarm clock and I had different plans. I overslept, so Rebecca stepped in and saved the day by cooking bacon and eggs for everyone.
After breakfast, we made our way down to Brucoli, where we met our little boat-rental guy — a skinny Italian guy wearing a fluorescent shirt who looked like he had just stepped out of a long line of Sicilian fishermen. We rented a little 19-foot boat for a half day and headed out to explore the coastline.
The day on the water was spectacular. We cruised along the beautiful Sicilian coast, passing John and Monica’s house and taking in the dramatic cliffside homes and coastline. Along the way, we passed several old pillboxes, some apparently German from the war. A few have even been renovated and turned into Airbnbs — probably with spectacular views and a history that would make the walls talk.
One of our stops was at Agone Point and the Archile Anchorage, where we anchored and went swimming. The highlight was swimming right up to and underneath a natural arch. The water was unbelievably clear and refreshing, and swimming through the arch made for one of those experiences that you know you’ll remember long after the trip is over.
After returning the boat, we came back for some light snacks before heading down to the beach. John then decided it was time for my next adventure: learning to ride his e-foil.
There were definitely some struggles at first. Let’s just say there was considerably more falling than foiling. But after enough attempts, I actually managed to have some moderate success and get the board up and moving. And that’s when I realized I may be totally committed to becoming a foiler. Apparently, one successful ride is all it takes to create a new obsession.
The weather remained absolutely blistering — hot, hazy and almost surreal. The Sirocco winds, carrying dust from the Sahara across the Mediterranean, gave the sky that hazy, muted appearance that made everything look slightly dreamlike.
By evening, we headed into Brucoli for dinner at Moplen, where we enjoyed some excellent Sicilian pizza. We had the Abbondanza pizza along with a Sicilian ensalata. The salad was incredibly fresh, and the whole meal was a perfect way to finish another unforgettable day on the Sicilian coast.
Boat ride, swimming through an arch, learning to e-foil, Sicilian pizza and good friends — not a bad day in Sicily.
Day 4
Another Sicilian Adventure — Catania, Savoca & the Gole dell’Alcantara
After breakfast, we started in another day of excursions, with our first destination being Catania. As we got closer, we finally got a decent view of Mount Etna, although the mountain was still fighting through the haze created by the Saharan winds.
Meanwhile, the three girls in the back seat were having a great time laughing, talking and rehashing stories from their Canal Zone days. Apparently, those stories are never going to run out!
We stopped to gas up at ENI, where we discovered one of the more interesting gas station logos around — a six-legged mythical dog breathing fire. Very reassuring imagery when you’re simply trying to fill the tank.
The haze was courtesy of the Scirocco, the hot southern winds that blow directly from North Africa across the Mediterranean. They pick up fine particles of Saharan sand and dust, creating a dense orange-brown haze over Sicily. It gave the entire landscape a slightly surreal appearance.
As we continued, we passed the exit for the Etna ski resort — something I had no idea even existed. Apparently, when you’re not skiing on Etna, you’re admiring vineyards and lava fields. Sicily really does have it all.
The drive continued through tunnels and along the coastline, with some stretches looking remarkably like the Amalfi Coast. We eventually made our way toward Taormina and then exited at Roccalumera, on the Ionian coast. The road through town was narrow, winding and, in places, essentially one-way. Driving through some of these Sicilian towns is less a matter of navigation and more a test of faith!
From there, we headed up the winding mountain roads toward our destination: Savoca.
Savoca — The Godfather Comes to Life
Savoca is famous for being one of the locations used in The Godfather, and it didn’t take long before we were looking for Marlon Brando around every corner.
Our first stop was Bar Vitelli, the famous little bar where Michael Corleone asks Apollonia to marry him. It sits in a beautiful little square overlooking the surrounding countryside, and it was easy to imagine the movie scenes taking place right there.
We also came across a statue honoring Francis Ford Coppola, the director who put this little Sicilian village on the cinematic map.
Then came the Godfather church, where Michael and Apollonia were married in the movie. Adding to the atmosphere, the haunting Godfather music was actually playing in the background while we were there. The Padre came out and took a group photo for us in front of the church — and even joined us for a selfie. You couldn’t have scripted it any better.
Back in the square in front of Bar Vitelli, we took some time to enjoy the local specialties, including small pastries and gelato. A perfect Sicilian combination.
Leaving Savoca meant another adventure — this time descending a single-lane mountain road that seemed considerably narrower on the way down than it had on the way up. A little harrowing, but by now we’ve learned that every outing in Sicily is an adventure!
Gole dell’Alcantara — A Walk Through Volcanic History
River trekking!
Our next stop was the Gole dell’Alcantara, one of the coolest stops of the day. The Alcantara River has carved its way through ancient lava flows from Mount Etna, creating a spectacular volcanic gorge.
What makes the gorge so amazing is the columnar basalt along its walls. As the molten lava cooled, it shrank and naturally cracked into geometric columns, many of them roughly hexagonal. Over thousands of years, the river cut down through the hardened lava, creating a narrow canyon with walls around 25 meters high.
Standing down in the gorge, surrounded by those huge black volcanic columns, it almost looks like someone built the walls on purpose. But it’s all nature — a combination of an Etna lava flow, cooling rock and the river slowly wearing everything down.
Getting down into the gorge required a big walk down a lot of steps, which, of course, meant we would eventually have to climb all those steps back up. Once in the gorge, we made our way along the river and even did some rock hiking through the rapids and narrow crevices between the basalt formations.
And then there was the water. Even in the heat of a Sicilian August, the Alcantara River stays surprisingly cold — roughly 8–12°C (46–54°F). After spending the day in the Sicilian heat, that cold water was quite a shock!
The contrast between the hot summer air, icy turquoise water and towering black basalt walls made the Gole dell’Alcantara one of those places you can’t fully appreciate until you’re actually standing there.
After all that walking, climbing and rock scrambling, we earned a stop at a local store for a coffee break, pastries and snacks. Everything tasted especially good after the hike!
Back at the Villa
Eventually, we made our way back to the Jonica Sicilian villa on the Mediterranean. From the house, we could see a nice wind swell coming in from the north — always something that catches my attention when we’re near the water.
Back at the villa, John made ribs, and I put together a salad. After a full day of driving, climbing, hiking, sightseeing and generally getting ourselves into one adventure after another, it was a very satisfying meal to cap off the day.
Another great Sicilian day — from Catania and Mount Etna to the movie magic of Savoca and the incredible volcanic walls of the Alcantara Gorge. And once again, Sicily managed to combine history, food, scenery, geology and adventure into a single day.
Day 5
Sunrise, Siracusa & the Underground of Ortigia
Waking up to the sunrise over the Mediterranean is a pretty fantastic way to start the day. The early morning light stretching across the Med was spectacular, and for a few minutes nobody seemed to mind getting up early.
We were off at 8:00 a.m. Rebecca decided not to swim this morning, since swimming has been helping with her allergies, and we headed off toward our destination: Ortigia, the historic island and heart of Siracusa.
Our first stop was an Italian essential — an Esso station, where we found a pastry shop, coffee, and juice. Proper fuel for a day of exploring. We arrived in Ortigia around 9:15, navigating multiple rotaries along the way. Sicily apparently believes that if one traffic circle is good, several must be better.
We parked right down by the seaport, surrounded by fishing boats and excursion boats. Getting an early start turned out to be a good decision because the day was already warming up. From the harbor, we made our way into the old city.
Ortigia is a maze of narrow streets and alleys lined with beautiful Baroque buildings, ornate balconies, and centuries of history. On this peaceful Sunday morning, the streets were still relatively quiet, making it a great time to wander.
Monica quickly assumed her role as our unofficial tour guide, fan in hand and arm extended, leading us through the streets with the confidence of someone who had been doing this professionally for years.
We eventually reached one of the beautiful piazzas, where the masonry and architecture were impressive enough to make us stop and take it all in.
One of the highlights was a building that had previously been constructed as the Temple of Athena, a Greek temple that was later incorporated into the Cathedral of Syracuse, also known as the Duomo di Siracusa. Inside, the original Greek columns are still visible, seamlessly integrated into the walls of the cathedral. It is an incredible example of how layer upon layer of civilization has been built on top of what came before.
We also observed the crypt beneath the church, and nearby an ancient well that provided a fresh water source. It was fascinating to think about how important these underground water systems were to the people who lived here centuries ago.
Siracusa's history goes back thousands of years, including its connection to Archimedes and the ancient Greek city that once dominated this part of Sicily. The natural harbor was strategically important, and the fortress at the point of the bay is a reminder that controlling this waterway was critical for centuries.
The history eventually reaches all the way to World War II and Operation Husky, the Allied invasion of Sicily in 1943. Siracusa and the surrounding area played an important role in the invasion.
There were also plenty of reminders of Sicily's more recent and darker history. One museum display included an original grenade preserved in ceramic at the fort. And, as with so many places in Italy, political history is never far away — including Mussolini-era propaganda proclaiming that “many enemies make much honor” for the Fascist state.
By late morning, the temperature had really started to climb. We escaped the heat by sitting in the shade of the banyan trees near the harbor and watching the superyachts come and go. One particularly impressive yacht, Glacial Bear, was tied up in the harbor. Not a bad place to spend a Sunday morning.
We then headed underground into the Hypogeum beneath Piazza Duomo. Inside it, the ancient cistern was massive and surprisingly cool — a welcome relief from the heat above ground. We walked deeper into the underground passageways until the last 20 meters became essentially pitch black. Monica, who had been confidently leading the expedition, suddenly discovered that she was just a little claustrophobic.
Emerging back into the sunlight, we headed for lunch along the waterfront at Ristorante Lavatoio, right on the promenade. The restaurant sits above an old Roman clothes-washing pool, adding yet another historical layer to the day.
After lunch, we had hoped to make it to the beach for some cliff jumping, but unfortunately we couldn't get access. Apparently Sicily had decided that we had accumulated enough adventure for one day.
We then went in search of an ATM, which turned into its own little adventure and eventually took us all the way to Augusta.
While there, we stopped at a grocery store to stock up for tomorrow's adventure — the big one: Mount Etna.
After a full day exploring ancient Greek temples, Roman history, underground cisterns, fortresses, superyachts, and the streets of Ortigia, we were ready for whatever Etna had in store for us tomorrow.
Day 6
Mt. Etna Day 🌋
Up before sunrise this morning. I made the coffee, and John drove us into Catania to our pickup point for the Mt. Etna hike.
We met our guide, Davide, in Catania and sat on the steps of a church waiting for the van. While we were waiting, we had a travel miracle of our own: we checked in for our Lufthansa flight exactly 23 hours before departure and had already received boarding passes with seats! Never has that happened to us before. German efficiency at its finest. The non-rev can finally relax.
Then it was up, up, up the south side of Etna, climbing steadily from the outskirts of Catania.
Our first stop was a huge lava-rock field, where Davide explained the history and mechanics of Etna’s lava flows. It was already quite windy, and there was some concern that the cable car might not be operating.
Davide explained that Etna is known as “Mother Etna.” Right now, she was a little nervous, so she was smoking. When she gets angry, she screams. With more than 300 eruptions recorded and a long history of destruction, it seemed like a pretty good idea to stay on her good side.
Visibility was not great, but it improved just enough for us to stop for a few pictures. We learned that Catania has been destroyed by eruptions and earthquakes multiple times throughout its history, with the catastrophic eruption of 1669 being one of the most famous.
Next stop: a little Chiosco Bar for a proper Sicilian pastry. Because apparently hiking up an active volcano requires carbohydrates.
As we reached the gondola launching point, people were arriving by the busload for their excursions. Our van driver was hilarious, but also incredibly knowledgeable.
The wind was blowing ash around us, and little bits of volcanic grit were already finding their way into our mouths. We were given colored wristbands and learned that we were officially the Green Team.
Unfortunately, the cable car was closed because of the wind.
So Plan B was activated: the 4x4 “bus.” Calling it a bus is being generous. It looked like a cross between a military vehicle and a lunar rover, and given the terrain, it was definitely more rover than bus. We bounced our way higher up the mountain, passing hikers and pedestrians along the way. At one stop, we even saw a European hiker doing what seemed to be the traditional European mountain activity: stopping for a smoke.
Eventually we started hiking on the volcanic ash and sand.
French and English could be heard at virtually every stop as groups made their way up the mountain. The wind was blowing the ash across our faces so aggressively that it felt like a volcanic exfoliation treatment.
Davide taught us the Italian term “a monini”—single file—as we navigated the increasingly loose terrain.
The scenery was becoming more otherworldly by the minute. At one point it looked like a scene from Star Wars. And, I couldn’t get Sting out of my head: singing “Walking on the Moon.”
Visibility was so obscured by the ash and wind that we were told Catania was somewhere out there. Somewhere.
As we crested one section, the ground became incredibly loose and granular. Walking through it felt like snowshoeing in volcanic sand. After making it through, we were rewarded with a well-earned fist bump.
Because of the strong west winds, the guides rerouted us toward the east side of the mountain. Eduardo was translating in English for us, and we were only able to pick up about half of what he was saying.
At one point there was some discussion about the prediction versus the condition—basically, the forecast had one thing to say, while Mother Etna had another. Eduardo’s English translation gave us a new word for it: combining “prediction” and “condition,” he coined “condiction.”
It was also quite amusing in his explanations of volcanic ash, as he used the word “hash”
And then came the grand finale to a wonderful week in Sicily.
As the sun began setting to the west, Rebecca took her final swim in the Mediterranean. Almost simultaneously,as we bobbed in the clear, warm azure sea, Mount Etna finally cleared for the first time all week.
The strong westerly winds were finally doing us a favor, blowing the Saharan sirocco dust back toward Africa and revealing Etna in all her glory.
A fitting end to an incredible week in Sicily—and a perfect final look at Mother Etna.
