January 14.2026

 A Wonderful Jungle Hike

This morning began with adventure in the air. We were picked up by Azuero Adventures from Hotel Playa Cambutal and joined several other hikers from Chicago who are here on a yoga retreat. Together we set off into the jungle, following an upriver trail for about an hour each way, with the rhythmic sound of water and birds guiding us forward. Our destination: a beautiful cascading waterfall tucked deep in the forest.

The hike itself was lovely, but the true highlight was our guide, Bryan. He is Panamanian, studied biology at university, and it showed in every step of the journey. He seemed to know every plant, tree, animal, and insect along the way. We took a fascinating deep dive into the worlds of bullet ants and army ants, and explored the secrets of termites and their nests built in the branches of the trees.

Where Bryan really shone, though, was in explaining the geology of the peninsula. He described how this land was once a volcanic island, later joined through the movement and collision of three tectonic plates. That monumental meeting helped form Central America itself. Standing there, he reminded us that we were at the southernmost point of North America, on the Azuero Peninsula—history, science, and scenery all merging in one spot.

After reaching the waterfall, we took a refreshing swim in the clear pool it created. Cooling off beneath the cascade of the falls, we felt the natural hydraulics of the water massaging our shoulders, a soothing reward after the hike in. It was simply unforgettable—one of those moments where time slows down and you realize just how lucky you are to be exactly where you are

An Evening at Aurora Rincón

We had a most enjoyable evening at a small, local Panamanian restaurant tucked down the dirt road from our hotel, Playa Cambutal. The place was called Aurora Rincón, and it couldn’t have been more unassuming—simple cinderblock walls, a corrugated tin roof, and tree-trunk posts holding it all together. The kind of place you might drive past without a second thought, and the kind you’re always glad you didn’t.

Behind the bar and stove was Fernando, the chef, and he was nothing short of amazing. We started with tuna ceviche, fresh and perfectly balanced, setting the tone for the rest of the meal. For the main course, tuna was my protein, while Rebecca chose chicken, both served over a bed of pumpkin and vegetables that were diced and cooked to absolute perfection.

It was truly a local spot—authentic, welcoming, and full of character. A hidden gem and a wonderful discovery, Aurora Rincón was the perfect way to cap off the evening, reminding us once again that some of the best meals come from the simplest places.

A Day on the Pacific 1.13.2026

 A Day on the Pacific

Today started before sunrise in Cambutal, with that mix of anticipation and sleepiness that only an early fishing day brings. Things got interesting right away with a bit of name confusion among the guides. Between similar names and a language barrier, it took some effort to sort out who was who. In the end our guide was not Robert, but Pio, and the other boat in the group was captained by Oscar. They had some battery issues getting started, but eventually everyone made it off the beach and out toward blue water.

About 15 kilometers offshore, the ocean began to come alive. Birds were working hard, diving and wheeling above the surface—clear signs of tuna feeding below. It felt like the perfect setup. Lines went out, drags were ready, and spirits were high.

Heading out in the panga boat

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I shared the boat with another hotel guest, John, who grew up in Wisconsin but now lives in Emerald Isle, North Carolina—the same little blonde family from Wisconsin we’d noticed earlier at the point. Despite all the promising bird life and the miles covered, our luck just didn’t line up with the bite today. Our only fish to the boat was a jack crevalle. We did hook into one tuna, but it shook the hook before we could bring it close. Meanwhile, to really rub salt into things, Oscar’s boat managed to land fivetuna.

The ride back was long and lumpy, getting rocked around in semi-rough seas off Azuero. Even without coolers full of fish, it was still a full day on the Pacific—sun, spray, near-misses, good company, and stories that will grow with time. Some days you limit out; some days the ocean reminds you who’s in charge. Today was the latter, and that’s all part of the adventure. 

Laid back Beach Day, Cambutal 1.12.2026

 

A Laid‑Back Beach Day of Rest

We eased into the day with a slow, peaceful morning. Before breakfast, we wandered down the road for a yoga session unlike any we’ve tried before. The place we did yoga was called The Collective (Collectiva). It blended flowing movement with… eyeball yoga. Yes—actual exercises for your eyes. I’ve never seen that before, pun very much intended.

After yoga, we headed over to check the surf at the point, Cuatro Once. A small blonde family from Wisconsin was already posted up there, enjoying the view, and some small waves coming through. There was a bit of swell showing at high tide, but not quite enough to justify renting a board—the juice just wasn’t worth the squeeze today.

Instead, we opted for the simplest plan: an easygoing beach day out front of the Playa Cambutal Hotel. The afternoon unfolded slowly and perfectly—time in the ocean, lounging by the pool, and capping it all off with a beautiful sunset photo.

Cambutal Beach Sunset

The hotel food has been fantastic, and the staff incredibly hospitable. Overall it’s been a wonderfully relaxed, low‑key beach experience—exactly the kind of day of rest we were hoping for.

January 11, 2026 “Long Strange Trip”

 What a Long, Strange Trip It’s Been

January 11, 2026

Today felt like a true road-trip odyssey. Many hours on less than perfect Panamanian roads. In tribute to Bobby Weir’s passing last evening, and all the music and memories tied to him and the Grateful Dead, Rebecca let me listen to the Dead for most of the drive. There’s something about those songs rolling on in the background that makes the miles feel like part of a story rather than just pavement passing by.

It was a six-hour drive from Panama City to the small beach village of Cambutal. The day, the music, and the long ribbon of road all seemed to fit with that line: what a long, strange trip it’s been.

We checked into the Cambutal Hotel just in time to watch the Jaguars lose their divisional playoff game to the Bills in the wild card round. Cambutal feels like a sleepy little place — slow air, quiet streets, ocean somewhere just beyond the horizon of trees. This afternoon was all about rest after the long ride, especially after the last hour, which was a pothole-marked stretch advertised as the “new road” into Cambutal. New, apparently, in spirit only, certainly not in road texture!

The drive carried us through countless small Panamanian villages, each with its familiar rhythm, and each with a Chinese-owned supermercado, a dusty main road, and a sense of time moving a little differently. When you go into the store, you learn the trick quickly — pick the package with the least dust and hope that means it’s the freshest. We also stopped at Quesos Chela, of course — a compulsory stop on any beachward drive leaving Panama City.

We grabbed empanadas and queso blanco for the road. The final hour into Cambutal was winding and narrow, full of potholes, blind turns, and hills — jungle on both sides, road ahead uncertain, the ocean somewhere waiting at the end of it.

Now it’s time to rest, let the road unwind from our shoulders, and listen just a little longer as the music fades into the sound of the evening.

Jan 10 2026 Panama

 Fishing Day on Lake Gatun

I woke up early today after a night of not-so-restful sleep. It never quite turned into deep sleep, just that drifting, half-awake state. By morning I was up and moving, making breakfast and coffee with Marti’s Miele coffee maker — the best part of the early start.

By 6:30 I met up with my fellow five fishermen — or pescadores — mostly folks from The Villages in Florida. A good crew, easy conversation, and plenty of anticipation for the day ahead on the water. 

We had a solid half day of fishing on Lake Gatun. Our targets were peacock bass and snook. The peacock bass cooperated nicely; the snook definitely did not. Still, plenty of action, tropical scenery, and that familiar rhythm of cast, retrieve, repeat, in a jungle setting.

After fishing, we stopped at Magoo’s for fish tacos. The owner, Carlos, was incredibly friendly and easygoing. We got to talking about tacos, and I shared the story of their origins: fish tacos are widely believed to have originated in Ensenada, Baja California, when local fishermen began batter-frying fresh fish and serving it in tortillas with cabbage, crema, and salsa. The style caught on in the 1980s and eventually spread worldwide — knowledge I picked up firsthand on my surf trips to Baja.

Meanwhile, Rebecca spent the day in her childhood home, walking her old haunts and soaking in familiar memories, and topped it off with a manicure.

Dinner was later with the Dolans at Makoto, a downtown restaurant, seated outside on a patio facing the skyscrapers of the city. Warm air, lights rising over the skyline, and great company with Eddie and Carson made for the perfect end to the day.

An early morning, good fishing, tacos, city lights, and friends — not a bad way to spend a day.

Jan 9 2026 Panama

 Jungle Day in Gamboa

Today was a hiking day. We headed out to Gamboa to try and find a trail we’d hiked years ago. We spent a while searching for Pipeline Road, but despite our best efforts — and even consulting AllTrails — it stayed elusive. Instead, we followed another path that led us to a small waterfall. It turned out to be a popular spot, packed with families enjoying the holiday. Today is Día de los Mártires, a day of remembrance in Panama honoring students who were killed in the Canal Zone.

The day started on a great note with a poached-egg breakfast at Captain Andy E’s home, fittingly named Cascada, just next door. Good food, coffee, and conversation made for the perfect send-off into the jungle.

The hike itself was full-on rainforest — lush greenery, dense foliage, and constant birdsong, all unfolding right alongside the Panama Canal. Wildlife didn’t disappoint either. We spotted an anteater moving through the brush and counted five howler monkeys perched high in the canopy, their calls echoing through the trees.

I also checked a couple errands off the list today: I dropped my tux shirt off with a local seamstress named Ellie, and took several shirts to a chino dry cleaner in old Clayton. Productive jungle day!

This evening we’re off to Danny Reyes’ home for a spaghetti dinner. Before that, we spent a little time back at Cascada with the Bales and some friends — and I managed to finagle my way onto a fishing charter on Lake Gatun. Apparently there are snook and jacks in those waters, and I’m already eagerly looking forward to it.

All in all, a day of good food, jungle hiking, wildlife sightings, and plans for the adventures still to come

Jan 8.2026 Panama

 Jan 8, 2026

Morning in Balboa: Settling Into Panama

It’s 7:00 a.m. in Balboa, Panama, and I’m sitting on the porch at Marti Smith’s house on Empire Street, surrounded by the sounds of the jungle waking up. Birds chatter in the trees while others sweep across the sky, and every so often a regional plane glides overhead on final approach to Albrook. It’s peaceful, humid, alive — the perfect contrast to the whirlwind day that brought us here.

Yesterday started before dawn, with a 3:30 a.m. wake-up to make a 7:00 a.m. Copa flight. After dropping Rebecca at Terminal C and parking in the north employee lot, I barely made it in time — the check-in desk was closing as I walked up. Somehow, the travel gods cooperated. We boarded and ended up in the exit row after Rebecca handed the ops agents a couple of goodie bags.

One of the flight attendants gave us a memorable moment during the safety briefing. In broken English, he explained what to do “when the signal repeats twice,” saying, “I have a question, I have a question.” It took us a second to realize he meant “evacuation,” not that he had a question. It was one of those charming travel moments you know you’ll laugh about later.

I slept most of the flight, but not before finishing Rebecca’s breakfast. Meanwhile, her excitement only grew as Panama drew closer. Stepping off the jetway, she was home — and you could feel it.

We rented from Budget, and after tracking down the letter from USAA declining collision damage coverage, we were upgraded to a RAV4, a little bigger than planned but perfect for what we need. Then it was off to Marti’s house, where we were welcomed by the beautiful details and warmth of her place.

Dinner, of course, meant one place: Napolis. Rebecca slipped right back into life here, surrounded by familiar faces cycling through like a revolving door of Canal Zone history. Afterward, we stopped at El Rey to stock up for the next few days. For now, we’ll stay close to the Canal Zone, but the weekend will take us to the beach.

For the first morning here, it feels exactly right — calm, full of life, and already rich with stories.

With John Hearn….Napoli’s