May 4, 2011 Nicaragua
Sessions and days have begun to blend together as the dreaded pre-dawn knock comes at our mahogany Nicaraguan door. Surfing bootcamp has commenced for yet another day. First comes our mini breakfast, then we are loaded into the back of the Landcruiser for our trek to Austerillo. The 4X4 passes through town, and out onto the beach, heading for the base of the big craggy bluff that was our windbreak for sweet waves at Lance’s yesterday.
In order to get to Lance’s via land route, we need to go on foot around the point. The first part of the walk is across sand, but that quickly turns to stretches of shards of shale at the base of the mount, followed by slippery rock steppes below the high tide line. My flip flops have turned into slip flops, as they have gotten wet and the uneven terrain stretches them to their tensile limit.
At the paddle out, we must again maneuver out over submerged rocks, so it is slow going at first as we exercise a good amount of caution. That is a long paddle as well, giving our muscles a chance to scream to life from yesterday’s marathon paddle exertion.
Beating us to the line up is a British couple who are already enjoying some of those long lefts Lance’s is known for.
Upon our arrival, we strive to exercise some good surf ettiquite, and not be some Gringo wave hogs mixing our sharing of the lineup with a healthy mix of enthusiasm and encouragement.
Man, my timing was off this morning, and although I had some great lefts, my paddling power was just a tad short of what was required to get into the drops in time to beat the section of white water before the waves were breaking.
Dave took a slip on the treacherous march around the point, and for the first part of the session, he joined our photographer, John as a spectator. When he did paddle out, he did a water borne entry from a mini cliff on the point to come out and shred some waves.
Tom was again dialed into this spot, and has that sixth sense to be at the right place to take off into the overhead set waves that would come in at regular intervals.
Rick and Kevin had some notable rides, and Freddie had one long left on his mini longboard which was quite pleasing to him.
After about a 3 hour fun session, the Popoyo boat showed up just in time to observe Rick, Tom, and Dave snatch three epic waves which was an irresistible lure to their surf passengers.
As the stoke bandits paddled out, we caught our last waves in to accomplish another return hike around the point. Despite my gringo pasty pads, I had an easier time picking my way from boulder to boulder in bare feet to avoid another episode of the morning’s slip flop rock dance.
The Landcruiser was loaded up, and we jovially returned to base for another installment of a Central American “Grand Slam” breakfast.
Naps followed, in preparation for an afternoon session………………………………………
Which was held at Popoyo. 2 sessions in an aggressive line up with surfers from around the world, Nica, Japan, Eastern Europe, U.K. etc. Mostly they were residents at the youth hostel up the beach. It was a bit agro in the lineup, and even though the wave was a nice, peeling peak, my wave count was low.
No problem though, got in a Skype session with my kids this evening, and it was langosta night at the Lodge. All you can eat lobster dishes including: grilled, ajo, mantequilla, lobster, cerviche, rice and fish. Unreal meal. A nice night cap to a day of hard corp surfing, as I go to bed to nurse my wounds, scrapes, rashes, abrasions, sea lice welts, and pride. Tomorrow is another day of building swell.
Sessions and days have begun to blend together as the dreaded pre-dawn knock comes at our mahogany Nicaraguan door. Surfing bootcamp has commenced for yet another day. First comes our mini breakfast, then we are loaded into the back of the Landcruiser for our trek to Austerillo. The 4X4 passes through town, and out onto the beach, heading for the base of the big craggy bluff that was our windbreak for sweet waves at Lance’s yesterday.
In order to get to Lance’s via land route, we need to go on foot around the point. The first part of the walk is across sand, but that quickly turns to stretches of shards of shale at the base of the mount, followed by slippery rock steppes below the high tide line. My flip flops have turned into slip flops, as they have gotten wet and the uneven terrain stretches them to their tensile limit.
At the paddle out, we must again maneuver out over submerged rocks, so it is slow going at first as we exercise a good amount of caution. That is a long paddle as well, giving our muscles a chance to scream to life from yesterday’s marathon paddle exertion.
Beating us to the line up is a British couple who are already enjoying some of those long lefts Lance’s is known for.
Upon our arrival, we strive to exercise some good surf ettiquite, and not be some Gringo wave hogs mixing our sharing of the lineup with a healthy mix of enthusiasm and encouragement.
Man, my timing was off this morning, and although I had some great lefts, my paddling power was just a tad short of what was required to get into the drops in time to beat the section of white water before the waves were breaking.
Dave took a slip on the treacherous march around the point, and for the first part of the session, he joined our photographer, John as a spectator. When he did paddle out, he did a water borne entry from a mini cliff on the point to come out and shred some waves.
Tom was again dialed into this spot, and has that sixth sense to be at the right place to take off into the overhead set waves that would come in at regular intervals.
Rick and Kevin had some notable rides, and Freddie had one long left on his mini longboard which was quite pleasing to him.
After about a 3 hour fun session, the Popoyo boat showed up just in time to observe Rick, Tom, and Dave snatch three epic waves which was an irresistible lure to their surf passengers.
As the stoke bandits paddled out, we caught our last waves in to accomplish another return hike around the point. Despite my gringo pasty pads, I had an easier time picking my way from boulder to boulder in bare feet to avoid another episode of the morning’s slip flop rock dance.
The Landcruiser was loaded up, and we jovially returned to base for another installment of a Central American “Grand Slam” breakfast.
Naps followed, in preparation for an afternoon session………………………………………
Which was held at Popoyo. 2 sessions in an aggressive line up with surfers from around the world, Nica, Japan, Eastern Europe, U.K. etc. Mostly they were residents at the youth hostel up the beach. It was a bit agro in the lineup, and even though the wave was a nice, peeling peak, my wave count was low.
No problem though, got in a Skype session with my kids this evening, and it was langosta night at the Lodge. All you can eat lobster dishes including: grilled, ajo, mantequilla, lobster, cerviche, rice and fish. Unreal meal. A nice night cap to a day of hard corp surfing, as I go to bed to nurse my wounds, scrapes, rashes, abrasions, sea lice welts, and pride. Tomorrow is another day of building swell.
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