We were awake to surf again at 0500, less apprehensive about the swell size, since it was still large. Off to Maili Point again, and out into the line up by 0630. I patiently waited, and watched many other surfers score some big waves and drops. Finally, I took off on a wave that would be the best ride I have had in 32 years of surfing. It was big, hollow, and fast. I actually shouted for joy as I rode the beast with a 12 foot vertical wall of water to the end. I can leave Hawaii completely satisfied that I surfed a true Hawaiian South swell.
That memory will always be with me, and was especially so today. Following the surf session we hit the swap meet at Aloha stadium for souvenirs and gifts.
As our vacation is winding down, we went to a very nice restaurant with our wonderful hosts, Jed and Tracy. It has been a fantastic 2 weeks, having checked off all of our to do items in Hawaii.
I got a kick out of a fellow surfer getting out of the water after the morning surf session. The bruddas use a slang greeting, Howzit? As in: Hows it Going? Spoken with a true Hawaiian accent. As I climbed out of the reef area this morning, that surfer was ready to paddle out, and asked. "How Was?" Too funny.
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