Big Wave Day

A South swell hit Hawaii today, propelled from the Ross Shelf down by Antarctica.  We had been anticipating the swell for some time.  In fact, the anticipation had led to some anxiety of the wave size.

We awoke at 0430 and Jed, Dylan, Mason and I drove to Maili point which is just short of Makaha.  The coast leading up to Maili was flat, but as soon as we glimpsed the Point, we saw the swell.  It funny, Hawaiians always exaggerate the wave size down, and I think it is because they are used to such great surf.  What we evidenced was the best conditions we ever get from the best hurricane swell, but no big deal to our local hosts.  We parked at their friend's house, and paddled out with, mostly, SUPers who were scoring some big bombs.  The outside sets were 10 feet faces, and pretty beefy, so a challenge to get in to.  I was riding a gun so that helped.  I got one notable hold under on a duck dive, and one notable thrashing after a giant drop, that actually ripped off my Road ID, never to be found.  It was held on with some pretty heavy duty velcro.  Overall, Dylan and Mason caught the most waves as Jed and I were waiting on the outside for the bombs.

After we got back to Kahala, we planned on touring the Bishop Museum, however, after we loaded up the car, and made our way there, we were disappointed to find it closed.  Plan B was the Outrigger Club.  Absolutely relaxing on the beach, with lunch and drinks available at the exclusive club, as the kids played for hours in the building surf.  It was so chill just to sit in the shade of the trees on the beach, watching the outer reef riders of SUPs, surfboards, and outriggers bomb the waves.

It was Taco Tuesday again, so we hit Wahoo's again, followed by a unique Taiwanese desert restaurant called Frost City.  They had a type of shave ice which was more like shave ice cream, having the consistency of freshly fallen snow, light and tasty.  Very cool, literally! 

It is sad winding down our vacation, and we have another epic dawn patrol surf session planned for tomorrow, followed by more Honolulu fun!!!!