San Blas Island: home of the native Guna indians

7/24/14  San Blas Day

Felix was ready at the gate of the Dolans house at 0530  Not surprisingly we were running a little late, but were underway without too much turmoil.  The drive to San Blas is a 2 1/2 hour ride through Panama City, and past Tocumen airport.  The traffic going into the city was ridiculous, again we were headed against traffic, and our congestion was minimal.  Definitely not enough road infrastructure in this country for the amount of traffic.  We needed a driver this morning, as our rental maxi van is not a 4 X 4, and that  is a requirement  on the road to San Blas.  So, the road down to the San Blas turn off is pretty straight, however, as soon as we made the turn off, that feature changes drastically.  The approximately 38 kilometers across the ridge is winding and steep, both ascending, descending, and quite curvy.  In fact, I understand some of our crew were under the influence of Dramamine.  Yes, that ride was like an E ticket ride at Disney, and pretty harrowing.  About two thirds of the way through the San Blas road, there is a check point to enter the Cuna Indian Territory.  There is almost a "customs/immigration" feel to this stop, and our passports were verified, but most importantly the fees for passage were paid.  At long last, we finally made it down the back side of the ridge and the coast line appeared, seemingly out of nowhere.  Thie landing and embarcation area was called the Marine Terminal, and panga boats were busily shuttling tourists and others between the mainland and the 365 islands of the San Blas.  Our boat driver was named Erik, and he met us at the car drop off point.  He loaded us into his panga boat, which Ryan excitedly pointed out had twin engines, although the Yamahas were of different horsepower.  Another party joined us, but we dropped them off at their isla hotel, and continued on to a sandbar for a photo opportunity.  Rachel immediately found a star fish in the knee deep water, and we were all amazed at this tropical paradise of white sands and beautiful, clear azure waters.

Our first island was Isla Perrito.  A beautiful palm tree lined island with a wreck at the beach front that was loaded with snorkeling visual treasures.  Schools of neon fish, anemonies, corals, and lovely reef fish populated the wreck which held our rapt attention.  At this island, the Cuna women were selling their wares, and the kids took a picture with one in front of her Mola display. A mola is an embroidered wall hanging featuring Cuna designs and local animal, which has become a trademark of Panamanian culture.  Being the mercantilists that they are, the picture cost us $2.00.  The Cuna vendor was less than a bit upset when Melinda snapped off another photo without the $2.00 payment.

After a quick lunch fromm our cooler full of sandwiches, we went to the second and last island of the day, called Isla Perro.  A few less people were about, and a reef was right off the beach.  The grassy area of the swimming area was loaded with urchins, and young spiny lobster.  We again observed all nature of beautiful reef fishes, and Ryan and I caught a slipper lobster, and after some photos, released it.  We spent most of the afternoon basking in tropical luxury under the bountiful palm trees, with a gentle breeze and viewing the magical islands of San Blas.

At 3 sharp, our pre designated pick up time, Erik returned with the panga to bring us back to the mainland.  We did a brief haggling for some lobsters, and got 6 for $30.  It is tough to get a good deal when the whole family is bargaining against you, in favor of the seller.

Most of our group were asleep for most of the ride home, but the Dramamine must've worn off since there was some talk of motion sickness on the roller coaster road revisited.

Got home to a grand meal of puerco, again prepared by Brisa, and we added lobster tails to the mix culminating in a Panamanian feast!  A great day indeed.

Wed 7/23 Playa in Panama

Woke up at the Dolan's home in Coronado with the intention of hitting a dawn patrol surf session.  We had timed the tide incorrectly yesterday, and with a little swell still running, thought we could have better luck in the early a.m.  We loaded up 2 reluctant and sleepy Pletcher boys to hit Playa Tetas,, which was flat.  We then ventured to Playa Palmar, also to no avail.  Low tide, and limited swell made for way less than optimal conditions.  We headed back to the Coronado beach house, and  just chilled out most of the morning.  However as the adults are enjoying Panamanian relaxation mode, these cousins are constantly in the water for multiple hours of the day, playing games, and having some great cousin fun.  By mid morning, they were all down at the beach, playing games in the hot, black Pacific sands, and enjoying the warm Pacific waters of Coronado.  About midday, Matthew came up to the house, and said to grab the longboard, as Dylan and Ryan were surfing the unnamed Point.  I got down to the beach just in time to see Rebecca breaking up a fight between the two surf groms, who were beating each other with borrowed surfboards.  That was the end of Dylan's surf fun, but Ryan paddled back out.  He, Matthew, and I surfed a  few fun peelers at the Point before the tide became too high and killed what little surf was sneaking through.  Due to the teenage boy altercation, that Point was named "Fight Club" Point, and will be known as such in perpetuity.

The plan today included going to El Valle in the interior of Panama.  If memory serves correct, it is the 2nd largest inhabited volcanic crater in the world.  Our family has visited it multiple times, so I was not disappointed when time ran out due to a playful afternoon of cousin activities poolside.

By mid afternoon, we sadly departed Coronado to return to the old Canal Zone.  The ride was a pleasant one, always seeming shorter than remembered.  The maxi van was at max capacity with the Pletcher and  Neimeyer families, and two Grimisons.  Traffic favored us as we headed back into Panama City against the rush hour flow, passing the Chula Vieja, or witches house.

We stopped at the "Cuna Cages" for some souvenirs, and did some customary haggling for the trinkets and curios they had for sale.  We purchased a couple of interesting mola prints, and the kids bought their favorite "weenies" which are small beaded bracelets.  Rebecca needed to purchase a visor, and it was $5.00.  I gave her $4.00 for the purchase with the expected haggling to ensue.  She was reluctant to haggle, and I put the $4.00 into the vendor's hands.  He laughed, and correctly assumed that it didn't matter, since he pegged Rebecca for the stiff bargaineer that she is, who would return to pay him the additional dollar.  I intervened before that could occur, but found the whole transaction quite amusing.

Tuesday 7/22 in Panama

7/22 tues

Went to playa palmar for beach day.  This is the beach that Rebecca has fond memories of from her high school days, and many beach party weekends. We got a slow star, but finally got to Ernie Holland's home on the beach. His dad, Coach Holland was Reb's track coach in high school, and he was there to greet his "track star" The boys and I surfed little Hawaii, it was small but somewhat fun. Kids have moved from gathering mangoes to gathering and eating coconuts, opening them with a knife  and drinking the coco milk. All the kids played in the shore pound surf. Back to Dolan's beach house, and the kids are loving the pool and company of their cousins. Eating a lot of empanadas bread zucaritas Maria cookies. Ceviche. Laid back afternoon. Surprised to not be more torn up by sea lice. Over to Tom christina and Melinda condo at coronado for pool cocktails and sunset. At the "sunset gathering" the Fahy family showed up, so Tom and 5 of his kids were there to view the wonderful sunset in Coronado over the Pacific Ocean.  Bill displayed his "go" bag with his survival gear, aka Special Ops survival stuff.   

Monday is Day 4 in Panama

Up early to go to the beach. Ryan has opted out, so it is Matt. Dylan and I. We needed to borrow a  couple of boards for Dylan and Matt.  In order to get the surfboards, we stopped in Veracruz just over the Puente de Americas.  Our route from Veracruz to the beach was along the Autopista, taking us all the way past Coronado to Rio Tetas.  Got to Rio Tits midday with the optimistic hope of sweet surf.  However, we missed the tide, and the swell was over predicted. First sesh was possible chest high waves at "Tits front" but mostly closing out. We decided to break for lunch, and headed for Don Chacos in Coronado. Oh. Also bought fin set at Malibu surf shop in Gorgona. Second sesh was a bust. Tide was too high, so we made it a short sesh. Went back to Coronado Beach Club, pronounced "cloob."

While entering the cloob, we were following a cherry picker utility truck for high tension wire maintenance. As they got closer to the entry gate, they must've realized the truck was too tall to make it through the covered security gate. They started to back up without realizing that we were directly behind them. As Matt groped for reverse, I layed on the horn. But alas. We were front ended by a truck, and propelled backwards. The Panamanian driver exhibited his best "oh well" attitude, but both parties realized we needed a police report. We hailed the police, and luckily there was a Police Sub station across the  street. Sgt shows up on his motorcycle, and is willing to write report faulting truck, but is more worried about Matt driving with no passport.  Since Matt speaks good Spanish, within the context of the conversation with Sgt. Motorcylce cop,  divulges he was born in Panama. He wonders why Matt does not have his sedula, the Panamanian birth document. He continues to cite the infraction, while referencing the tabbed "Nuevo Vehichlo regulations" stating said infraction is a fine of $150 and car impoundment. Matt's Spanish proficiency and birthplace of Panama are quite possibly what saves him from the said infraction. He gives Matt a chance to go get his passport. Upon returning, the cop jokes that he was about to call the Embassy since we were gone so long.  However, he cuts Matt a break and has satisfactoraly flexed his machismo muscle set, while proving to be a good natured motorcycle cop. When we finally get back to the Dolan's beach house, the kids are knocking mangoes out of the trees with a pool pole net. These cousins are loving their tropical lifestyle. Spaghetti dinner at Dolan's beach house.

Sunday, Day 3 Panama

Started the day with another run, but not such an early start.  The day of traveling and boating yesterday and the day before has caught up with this group of Adventurers.  But, back on the run, Rebecca and I made it out into the blazing humidity bath of Central America at a little before noon.  Holy heart rate Hill!  Started running through the old Canal Zone of Albrook again, and shuttled from tree shade spot to tree shade spot which aligned the road.  When we made it out of the neighborhood, we got onto a street with constant shade from trees, but no sidewalk.  A narrow 2 lane Panamanian road with blind curves.  Peligroso.  We ran on the non-existent shoulder of the calle, listening up for cars behind us as we jumped gnarled roots, ran on the turf, and hoped for a sidewalk.  The roads here are a lot more challenging than flat Florida, and in the mid day sun, it is sweet bliss when you find a road that is downhill and in the shade.

                                       The "Watche Man"  taking some cash from Rebecca, a Panamanian form of               extortion

                                      The cousins posing at a Panamanian hat store in Casco Viejo

                                   Bill Fahy hasn't slowed down from his Gamboa boy days

Family pose at Las Bovedas

After the run, we loaded the van to head to the historic district of Panama called, Casco Viejo or "Old Quarter".  We met the Fahy family at the Church of the Golden Altar.  After paying the "Watchie Man" at the Plaza we headed to the Church to determine that it was closed on Sundays. The Watchie Man is a paid guard for your parked car in the not- so- safe district downtown.  The original version of the Watchie man became famous at Napolis, downtown Panama.
After determining that the altar was closed, we decided to walk down to the point at Casco Viejo called Las Bovedas. Bill drove the 3 blocks to avoid walking.  This location is where Captain Morgan sacked Panama back in his buccaneering days.  Now it is a tourist destination.  The respado man was a favorite there shaving treats from a giant block of ice, and Bill Fahy danced the street with a young poyetta clad Panamanian.  Very amusing, and a Bill Fahy classic.  The rest of us enjoyed freshly shaved respados.  We just got back to the car in time to beat the downpour that would provide for a relaxing afternoon of rain sounds at the Dolan’s house.  In Panamanian terms, it is known as a tombo mono, as the fierce force of the storm can tumble a monkey out of a tree.

Our afternoon activity was the 100 year anniversary of St. Mary's church in La Boca.  It was the church that the Grimison family attended for school and worship.  In attendance were 5 of the 8 kids, Tom, their dad, and a slew of nieces and nephews taking up the better part of 3 pews.  It was a long mass, delivered partly in English and Spanish.  The bishop was also in attendance, and being the singer he was ended his delivery with a booming redndition of the Panamanian version of "Happy Birthday"  This version is sang at all of our family birthdays following the English version.  The multi language mass brought to mind the Japanese mass we attended in Hawaii just a year ago.  Most of the older gentelmen, Tom included wore the traditional Panamanian formal garb.  Dark pants, and a long sleeve guyaberra are the standard attire, and popular at this mass.

 A play was an additional commerative event following mass, but due to technical difficulties, most of us retired to the Balboa Yacht Club to meet some Zonians who were in town.  That is where coordination for surfboard borrowing began, and I managed to borrow a nice Boa board from Mike Stump.  The plan being to head up to the beach to catch some waves tomorrow, where the surf report is stating 3-5'

A good day on the catamaran "Flamenco Gato"

720/2014 Day 2 in Panama

Rebecca had a 2 mile run today, so I joined her as we ran the roads of Albrook.  Today's main activity was to take out a catamaran with another family, the Bradleys at the marina on the Causeway.  Grabbing some provisions at El Rey we made some sandwiches, picked up Christina at the Country Inn Suites in Amador, and were off to the Cat.  Our guide was named "Alejandro", however, after determining he was from Portland, and didn't speak Spanish, his true name Austin was revealed.  A very friendly guide for our excursion on the Flamenco Cat.

We had hoped to see some whales and catch some fish on our half day boat trip.  Although we enjoyed a very relaxing cruise around Toboga Island, we didn't spot any whales.  We did get a couple of hits from some mahi mahi, called "dorado" in Panama.  We could spot them trailing our trolled lures in the clear blue waters of the Pacific.  It turned out to be a very relaxing ride on Flamenco Cat.

The kids are thoroughly enjoying play time with their other cousins.  William and Jack are the young favorites, and are keeping all of them entertained.  All of these kids are getting along famously, even on our maxed out passenger van rides of 10-12 people.
After a little time chilling in the afternoon, we ended up deciding on the Causeway restaurant, Penkos, where we have  had some great meals in the past.  The Causeway traffic was slammed as a Cage 9 concert was being held this evening.

Instead of attending the Cage 9 concert, we opted instead to go to Alex Reyes home for an impromptu practice of Shorty and Slim, a favorite CZ band. This band is made up of childhood friends of the Grimison family, and their ballads describe their fantasy childhood experience whilst growing up in the Canal Zone. Again, the kids enjoyed the company of their cousins as well as the families of the Seitz, Bradley, and Reyes children.  Christina and Tom Grimison visibly enjoyed the evening, and it appeared that 10 years melted off Tom's age as he sat in an old Albrook home, surrounded by family, sipping a Panama beer and listening to songs of the CZ.

 The girls posing on a marker column from the American Canal Zone days, where one side designates CZ, Canal Zone, and the other side designates Republic of Panama.

                                       Shorty and Slim, the ballad singers of the Canal Zone

A great night to complete a great day.

The gathering of the CZ clan.

Gathering of the Clan 7/19/2014

Returning to Panama, a convergence of the Grimison family occurred at the Tocumen International Airport. Points of origin varied from Washington DC, to Merritt Island, Melbourne, and Coca Beach, FL, spanning 3 generations. By 9 pm all of the travelers had arrived at the airport.

Melinda and Matt came in on the same flight from Atlanta, Rebecca and our family had flown in early in the morning on Copa from Orlando and I also came from Orlando.


I was flying the last day of a 3 day trip this morning, and my first leg was to MCO.  When I was on short final,  I saw the flight that Rebecca and the kids were on as they flew to PTY.

Despite a trip to a 3rd world nation, we managed to stayed connected via social media and texting via wi fi throughout the day.  I was able to track their progress as they flew to Panama and then got settled in with the rental van and lodging.

We are staying at a family friend's home in Albrook. It is absolutely fantastic with the luxury features and Latin accoutrouments of an upscale Panamanian home.  The cousins are all happy to be together.  When we got back from the airport we sat out on the patio, and the caucophony of frog chorus was a transition into the Central American ......sedating the travel weary.

On an interesting flight note, Tom and Christina had to divert to Howard AFB due to weather in PTY, and refueled, to continued to Tocumen when the weather at PTY improved.

The usual surprises took place at the rental car counter as additional insurance charges precluded a second car rental.  Ended up with the 12 passenger "maxi" van.  We will need that for this trip.

Arriving in PTY the kids had adventures to explain to me "the unsafe" playground, which are in fact former U.S. constructed, 1950 vintage playground equipment with industrial strength steel still standing despite Latin maintenance standards.  I was regaled with other stories of:
Grandfather's "80 lb" suitcase falling on Rachel's foot, and  Ryan repeatedly stating, "arent you excited to  go fishing tomorrow?"  Meanwhile, throughout the day, in a short time frame,
Dylan would consume 10 pan-huevos about the size of a muffin at .33 each.  He is in bread heaven